Sunshine on a Cloudy Day

Hazy New England IPAs—once hard to come by—are getting a boost from local brewers, including West Chester’s Levante

My wife and I have a game we play. Perhaps there’s someone in your life with whom you play it, too. It’s called “can I have a sip of that?”

It’s usually played when I’m drinking beer and she’s drinking wine. She asks for a sip from my pint or bottle, hoping what she finds might be to her liking. Since I am invariably drinking an India pale ale, I usually warn her: “You won’t like it. It’s pretty hoppy.”

Nine times out of 10 she agrees, after scrunching up her face at the upfront bitterness and handing the vessel back.

It’s not an unusual scenario in the beer world. Maybe it’s a non-beer drinker looking to branch out, or someone who started his beer drinking at college keggers with fizzy, soda-like pilsners. Either way, that first hoppy slap in the mouth of an IPA was off-putting and perhaps dissuaded someone who was honestly trying to broaden his or her taste from expanding further.

It was almost as if brewers, for the longest time, were issuing a challenge, with each IPA coming out with more of a hops punch than the last. Drinkers, it seemed, were being dared to take a bitter hit, say thank you and then get up for more.

The hazy appearence, with creamy and tropical flavors, are characteristic of New England style IPAs.

But along the way, brewers in Vermont were taking a different tack. In 2011, at The Alchemist brewery in Waterbury, there emerged a new brew called Heady Topper, which flipped the script on an IPA’s typical hops flavor. It was a brew that, while still technically an IPA, presented something far different from what most craft beer drinkers were used to. Instead of a clear amber color, crispness on the tongue and bitter bite, this new IPA, which poured cloudy, proffered front notes of floral, fruit and citrus, and a creamy, dessert-like mouth feel.

Once word got out, the lines started to form. Drawn by murmurings in the beer world, fans of the new IPA—who, seeking to distinguish it from its more bitter West Coast version, began calling it Vermont or New England IPA—lined up for the hard-to-get canned releases. Nearby brewers got wind and reverse engineered their own versions of this new variation on the venerable IPA.

Picking Up on the Trend

With the emergence of what has come to be known as the New England IPA, however, those reluctant beer drinkers who up till now suspected the craft beer world was a hop lovers-only affair might change their minds. And fortunately for those who’ve already discovered the creamy, cloudy delights of this evolution in the beer world, local breweries and beer drinkers are picking up on the trend.

Beer aficionado Dana Dillon is a perfect example. The resident of Lincoln University, Pa., just over the state line from Newark, grew up in Ohio as a drinker of wine and “crap beer—mostly because wine was too expensive,” she says. Later, she moved up to more flavorful—but still corporate—beers like Killian’s Red and Blue Moon. But it wasn’t until she moved to Pennsylvania and discovered Downingtown’s Victory Brewing that she fell in love with craft brewing.

“Victory was my gateway,” she says. “I was like, ‘There are good things?’”

As she worked her way into craft beer culture, it didn’t take long for her to get word of Heady Topper and—because it has never been sold outside of a 25-mile radius from the Vermont brewery—its almost forbidden delights. Fans formed queues for canned releases like they were camping out for Springsteen tickets, traveling across states and trading for cans when they couldn’t make the journey, turning the pursuit of a true New England IPA into something akin to Jason and the Argonauts chasing down the mythical golden fleece.

Levante Brewing Company’s Cloudy & Cumbersome IPA has been so popular that they brew it almost weekly.

But in the early days before Heady Topper became such a commodity, it met with something of a marketing problem. It was cloudy.

“People are used to clear beers and [the brewery] didn’t want you to pour it in a glass if you hadn’t had it because it was cloudy,” Dillon says. “But then people got used to that cloudy thing and it’s sort of taken off from there. They’re very drinkable, and I think that makes it a little more accessible to people who think they might not like IPAs. It can have such a variety of flavor—you can have coconut, citrus, strawberry—and it fits in better with that style than a hoppy West Coast IPA.”

While the quest for home-grown New England IPAs continues (The Alchemist has instituted a three four-pack limit on Heady Topper purchases), nearby brewers have begun their own experiments in the New England style.

Taking It to Its Limits

Along Philadelphia’s Main Line, Ardmore’s Tired Hands Brewing Co. has begun offering a couple of styles that, while not labeled as such, hew to the new traditions of the New England IPA. American pale ale HopHands throws in oats and three kinds of hops with a juicy finish that suggests notes of citrus, honeysuckle and kiwi.

And not be outdone, Tired Hands has, with its Fruit Punch Milkshake IPA, taken the style to its limits, with oats, hibiscus and lactose sugar added in the brewing process. The nearly-finished brew is conditioned with Madagascar vanilla beans and a variety of tart fruit purees, then dry hopped with Mosaic and Citra varieties.

Down the road in West Chester, Pa., the brew masters at Levante Brewing have crafted their own takes on the New England IPA with their Cloudy and Cumbersome, Spring Till and Tickle Parts varieties. 

Even though cans of its New England IPAs typically sell out, Levante Brewing Company usually has them on draft for customers to try in its taproom.

The first batch of Cloudy and Cumbersome, cooked up in the brewery’s one-barrel (31-gallon) brew kettle, was Head Brewer Greg Harris’ attempt to recreate the flavors of a Dark ‘n Stormy cocktail in beer form, says Assistant Brewer Spencer Holm. The original batch started with a wheat-and-oat-heavy malt base aged in a rum barrel, which was then finished with lime leaves, ginger and additional hops.

“It was such a big hit that we scaled up the original malt base, got rid of the ginger and lime leaf and kicked up the hops,” Holm says.

That was the fall of 2016, and the initial demand was so great that the brewery found it impossible to keep up. The variety went into a periodic brewing schedule, but staff noticed that customers in the taproom were enjoying it on tap, in growlers and in on-demand-canned “crowlers.” At the same time, local bars and restaurants that stock Levante’s draft selections were looking for a locally-brewed New England IPA to serve. “It’s hard to find a New England IPA available for production, so since then we’ve been brewing it almost every week,” Holm says.

Low Bitterness

As for its appeal, Holm notes that the first thing that always comes to mind is the low bitterness, despite the IPA’s reputation for the opposite. That’s a result of adding the hops later, preserving the flavor profile while not allowing it to break down over the brewing process. The variety’s signature creaminess is achieved through the combination of specialty grains, such as oats and wheat, and by adding lactose sugar to the boil.

“It may seem like dumping a lot of hops in later would be the golden ticket, but what we’re trying to do is find a balance between the varieties of hops and the malt interaction, so all the ingredients are still noticeable,” Holm says.

“It just seems to hit the spot taste-wise kind of across the board, whether it’s summer and you want something refreshing or whether it’s winter and you want some kind of tropical escape,” he says. “It’s much more approachable. It’s really hard to find an alienating quality of this style.”

The appeal of Levante’s New England IPAs isn’t going unnoticed, with locals and “beer tourists” now forming lines outside the brewery on release days for cans of Cloudy and Cumbersome much like those at the Vermont breweries that launched the trend. Holm says he’s beginning to see cans traded online and in invitation-only beer groups on Facebook.

But waiting in line for canned beer and enjoying a draft in Levante’s taproom are two different experiences, and Holm says the brewery considers keeping on-site customers coming back to relax over a pint or two. So even though canned releases of Cloudy and Cumbersome typically sell out, it and several other New England IPA varieties are usually available on draft.

Asked to theorize about the legs of the New England IPA trend, Holm hesitates, but does note that aspects of the New England IPA style have influenced brewers not just to recreate it, but to take elements and apply them to other styles.

“The style is going to continue to get more refined as the drinkers determine what they enjoy most,” he says. “It’s definitely the drinker that dictates what breweries end up brewing.”

Iron Hill Brewery’s New Winter Lineup

Iron Hill Brewery has for the first time in its 21-year history decided to place a year-round emphasis on canned crafts, and it plans to release at least one new can each month in 2018.  It started with the introduction of the 2018 winter lineup on Jan. 11 with the release of cult favorite Rising Sun, a single-hopped IPA with Japanese Sorachi Ace hops. Two more canned brews will be added to the winter lineup in February: Bedotter, a traditional Belgian-style golden ale, on Friday, Feb. 9, and Ore House, a golden IPA, on Thursday, Feb. 22.

To learn more, visit ironhillbrewery.com.

Fall Beers and Winter Warmers

Here’s a sampling of what Delaware’s best brewers have to offer for the coming colder months

Target recently released a $5 line of wines, fermented malt beverages like hard ciders and sodas continue to sell, and the Paloma—a refreshing Mexican mix of tequila and grapefruit soda—has been randomly popping up on restaurant cocktail lists.

But while those are three distinct trends that speak to a specific type of drinker, craft beer geeks will be happy to know that their suds are safe. As the calendar turns to autumn and, way too soon, winter, those big, malty fall beers and winter warmers are on their way. Here’s a sampling of what some of Delaware’s best breweries have to offer, from north to south:

More than 20 years after it burst onto the local scene, Stewart’s Brewing Co. in Bear continues to churn out a bevy of both flagship and seasonal beers. On tap this fall is the Gourdzilla, a high-octane pumpkin ale that features several yeast strains. According to owner Al Stewart, this isn’t your average pumpkin beer, weighing in at a lusty 8 percent ABV.

Meanwhile, India Pale Ales still rule no matter the time of year, with the Spaced Invader IPA taking up tap space in November. The session IPA (just 5 percent) was originally brewed and named for the ‘80s fans at 1984 in Wilmington. Stewart says they’re currently (mid-October) a bit low on tank space, but if they can brew a double batch again this year, they’ll be sending another 10 kegs to the Fourth Street bar that features classic arcade games and pinball machines.

Iron Hill Brewery & Restaurant’s most award-winning beer just received its 13th medal in October—this time Silver—at the Great American Beer Festival in Colorado. Courtesy of the Newark location, the vaunted Russian Imperial Stout is a robust 9.8 percent that ages well into the winter months. Four-packs will be available by can for $22 by Nov. 22.

Up the road a piece, the Wilmington location is preparing to release the second iteration of its Last Alarm IPA, which commemorates Delaware’s fallen firefighters with a donation of $1 per pint sold. The beer—which was brewed with the help of local firefighters—will be available at both Delaware restaurants, benefitting the I.A.F.F. Local 1590 (Wilmington Firefighters Assn.) and Aetna Hose, Hook & Ladder Co. in Newark.

Despite the change in location from Greenville to Newport, Twin Lakes Brewing Co. is up and running with its new tasting room, featuring German beer-garden-style tables, a 20-seat bar, darts, board games, and an 18-foot shuffleboard table. They’re currently featuring seven beers on tap, including some nano-brew one-offs, and the 8 percent Jubilicious come late November.

Twin Lakes has been brewing this malt-forward holiday ale for years, and they recently learned it ages particularly well in oak barrels. The initial brew features seven specialty (and secret) grains, Belgian yeast, and imparts flavors of caramel and dried fruit. If you venture out for a taste, Twin Lakes is in the same building as the Delaware Tile Market, but on the side of the L-shaped building that faces the railroad tracks.

At Bellefonte Brewing Co., bigger is better. They’re now featuring a regular rotation of 32-ounce cans called “crowlers” (basically a play on merging cans and growlers), and will be featuring a combo Saison-cider spiced ale, as well as the new EZE IPA, a session beer made with American-grown Ekuanot hops (think more citrus than pine) and reduced gluten, for those watching their figure or suffering from allergies.

As the colder weather approaches, though, get ready for the Big V Porter. This big buy (8.5 percent) is aged with vanilla beans, making it the perfect pairing for those holiday desserts. Bellefonte is also planning a Fall Fest (because there probably aren’t enough local beer festivals on your calendar) for late November.

Up in Yorklyn, Dew Point Brewing Co. is releasing a collaborative Imperial Black IPA, in which they’re using locally grown hops from Greenview Farm in West Chester. It boasts an ABV of 9.5, and the Dew Point brew team is suggesting a hearty pairing of beef brisket or rack of lamb, as well as sweet desserts like crème brûlée and carrot cake.

And speaking of hearty, hold onto your hats for the brewery’s upcoming barley wine, which will use some undisclosed (but locally grown) herbs for flavor and is targeted to reach an ABV of around 12. A strong charcuterie board—with big cheeses, cured meats and candied nuts—would make a great complement to this one, whether on draft or in the bottle.

Rounding out the hop field in New Castle County is Blue Earl Brewing Co., which begins releasing its Big Earl Bourbon Series in November with the barrel-aged imperial breakfast stout called Dark Star. Distribution will be somewhat limited for this 10-percenter, but 22-ounce bottles will be available just before the Thanksgiving holiday.

The series continues in December with I Put a Spell on You, a Belgian dark, strong ale that’s been conditioning for about a year, followed in January by the American barley wine called Big Boss Man. At around 12 percent, the BBM will feature notes of rich dark caramel, licorice, toffee, bourbon, and even fig and plum. Be sure to stop by Wednesday through Sunday and check out The Juke, Blue Earl’s live music series that features a rotation of local bands and acoustic acts.

Heading downstate, Kent County’s crown jewels are following the local trend of spiced ale and stout. Fordham & Dominion Brewing Co. in Dover is putting out a Spiced Harvest Ale that blends a “tea” of nutmeg, allspice, ginger, clove and honey. It won “Best Spiced Ale” at Peco’s Liquor Store’s Great Pumpkin Debate in late September. The autumnal ale will be available in six-packs at Peco’s, Kreston’s Liquors and Total Wine & More, as well as on draft at the Washington Street Ale House.

Also on tap is the Morning Glory Espresso Stout, a sneaky good stout that measures 9 percent but drinks smooth, like a 6. This is the first year the stout makes an appearance as a seasonal, rather than a flagship beer, due to competition from Dominion’s Oak Barrel Stout (a mere 5.5 percent). Morning Glory, being the bolder of the two, makes a better fit for the winter months, and is brewed with nearly 70 pounds of locally roasted Indonesian and South American espresso beans. It will be available at the same liquor stores mentioned above, as well as on draft at Stanley’s Tavern, Ulysses Gastro Pub and Trolley Square Oyster House in Wilmington.

A little further down the road, Mispillion River Brewing will be challenging the notion that dark beers are too heavy and “chewy” to drink with their Seven Swords Golden Stout. This lighter colored stout still features notes of chocolate and coffee, but is easy on the palate and higher in alcohol than your average stout (at 8.6).

Beer drinkers looking for a little energy in their effervescence should try what may be the first “SportsBerliner” ever conceived, with electrolytes (like potassium, calcium, magnesium) added to the brew. The brainchild of brewer Ryan Maloney came about when he found himself mixing his daily sports drink with Mispillion’s Berliner Weiss, or German wheat beer. Called War Kitten, this novel concoction has a slight grape flavor and is available in 16-ounce cans and on draft.

Since most of us have come to expect something “off-centered” from Dogfish Head, diehard fans won’t be disappointed with the Liquid Truth Serum. This IPA unconventionally has three different hops

Dogfish Head Brewery’s Liquid Truth Serum IPA. Photo courtesy of Dogfish Head Brewery

added after the boil (rather than during), but is hoppy without much residual bitterness. The result is balance, with 65 International Bitterness Units (or IBUs, which is low for an IPA) and a finish that leans more toward crisp, zesty citrus, rather than pine or floral notes.

A little less than 10 miles away, 16 Mile Brewing Co. is planning an entire event around its new fall beer, and it’s a pretty creative brew, especially for Fireball fans. Called “Soul Cake,” this English pale ale is brewed with American oak chips that have been soaked in Fireball, the cinnamon whiskey that’s a favorite among bar-goers.

This 9.6 percent spiced ale will be the centerpiece of 16 Mile’s Launch Party on Saturday, Nov. 18, at which the folks from Screams at the Beach will set up a beer-centric haunted maze outside the brewery in Georgetown. Make your way to the middle and get a taste of the Soul Cake, which is a nod to the Old English tradition that commemorated All Souls Day. Before trick-or-treating became popular, the cakes were passed out and eaten as a sign of good fortune and the escape from purgatory.

While a majority (if not all) of the beers featured in this story should still be available after publication, Out & About cannot guarantee how long each will remain in stock, either on tap at the breweries or by bottle or can at liquor stores.

Why Delawareans Should Like Beer

You know, you guys write a lot about beer.

It’s a comment I’ve heard frequently in 29 years of producing Out & About. In fact, it’s an observation our teetotaling editor, Bob Yearick, has pointed out on more than one occasion.

My defense? There is none. I like beer. And as a Delawarean, you should like beer, too.

Since 1997, when Dogfish Head founder Sam Calagione put a six-pack into a homemade row boat and “exported” his brew to Cape May, N.J. (a memorable and clever publicity stunt), the craft beer industry in Delaware has been rowing with the current. And, oh, what a current.

Today, there are 19 operating craft breweries in Delaware. That number will expand significantly with the recent announcements of Stitch House Brewery, Midnight Oil, Braeloch and Wilmington Brew Works (See story on page 25). In fact, Wilmington Brew Works will be the first production brewery located in the city since 1954.

Today, craft beer is generating more than $318 million in economic impact for our state, says the nationally-recognized Brewers Association. We’re in the top 20 in the nation in breweries per capita, and Delawareans over age 21 drink about 11 gallons of craft beer per year—sixth in the U.S.
In other words, I’m not the only one in Delaware who likes beer.

What’s not to like? The craft beer industry promotes agriculture, science, creativity, entrepreneurship. It also promotes historic preservation, as abandoned buildings, warehouses and brownfields are popular new homes for aspiring brewers. Case in point: The recently announced Wilmington Brew Works will occupy the former Harper-Thiel Electroplating headquarters on Miller Road, a Superfund site that sat vacant for nearly two decades. The state helped clean it up, Wilmington’s economic development office found a development partner in Rose and Ralph Pepe, and soon beer will be brewed there.

Just five years ago, Delaware breweries employed 200 people directly and another 2,600 in related jobs such as wholesaling and retailing. Those numbers have doubled.

Dogfish Head has become more than a tasty brew; it’s now a brand that helps sell our state, much like the DuPont Co. has done for years. A stretch? Put it this way: On more than one occasion while traveling, I’ve had people respond to me when I say I’m from Delaware: Hey, that’s where Dogfish is from, right?

It’s an evolution not lost on state officials. The Delaware Tourism Office created a special tour—the Delaware Beer, Wine and Spirits Trail—which has doubled in size since its launch in 2010. And just last month the office introduced the Delaware On Tap app, a mobile version of the BWS Trail.

“The craft beverage industry as a part of tourism in Delaware is booming,” says Liz Keller, Delaware Tourism director. “The state has the ninth largest economic impact per capita from craft brewing in America.”

This month, Out & About will raise a toast to the craft beer scene with our seventh annual Wilmington Beer Week (Nov. 6-11). Read all about it in this issue, as well as other fascinating developments for the local craft scene.

Yes, more stories about beer. Hey, we like to paddle with the current, too.

Resurrecting the Beer King

A colorized photo of the King Gambrinus statue on the front of Wilmington's Diamond State Brewery, circa 1947. Photo courtesy of the Delaware Historical Society

The 19th-century statue was an icon of Delaware’s brewing history, and John Medkeff is determined to restore it

When the 11-foot statue of King Gambrinus began its 80-year watch atop Wilmington’s Diamond State Brewery in 1882, it was raising a goblet to the German immigrants who were turning brewing into an industry.

The immigrants brought lager brewing techniques to America, and their traditions, including King Gambrinus, came along, too. The mythical figure, typically bearded and cast in zinc, appeared on breweries across the country.

Then, in 1920, the 18th Amendment and Prohibition effectively ended Delaware’s golden age of brewing. Even after the misbegotten law was repealed in 1933, the local industry failed to thrive amid consolidation into a handful of major players.

Facing stiff competition from regional breweries, Diamond State closed in 1955. The one-two punch of Prohibition and consolidation, not to mention national brands like Budweiser and Coors, totally knocked brewing out of Delaware between 1955 and 1995.

King Gambrinus came on hard times, too, after Diamond State Brewery was demolished in 1962 to make room for Interstate 95. The statue was shuffled around to a few locations, and spent a decade at the former King’s Inn restaurant on Naamans Road north of Wilmington, the current location of Harry’s Savoy Grill.

Then, in 1978, as a buyer attempted to move it, it was dropped and shattered into more than 60 pieces. The weak point appears to have been a hook on the statue that couldn’t bear the 1,000-pound load.

Craft Beer to the Rescue

But the king may rise again. After the industry—in the form of craft beer—rebounded in Delaware and nationally, it seemed appropriate to pay homage to those who first brought beer here, says John Medkeff, Jr., a 54-year-old Wilmingtonian.

A native Delawarean and marketer by trade, Medkeff was driven to home brewing in the 1980s, he says, simply because he was disgusted by the poor quality of store-bought beer. He learned brewing from his family.

Medkeff published a book, Brewing in Delaware, in 2015, and is spearheading an effort to raise $100,000 to put the statue back together.

“It’s a perfect symbol of Delaware’s brewing industry, and of its revival,” says Medkeff. He’s hoping Delaware’s thriving craft beer industry—19 breweries, at last count—will contribute toward the project. 

He has formed a nonprofit, The Friends of Delaware’s Gambrinus Statue, Inc., to lead the “Restore the King” fundraising effort. The group has received estimates of approximately $100,000 to complete the statue’s restoration. What’s more, the Delaware Historical Society has agreed to exhibit the statue in its Market Street museum once it is repaired.

Whether a King Gambrinus ever existed may be lost to history. As for the myth that remains, Medkeff says, think of him as the Santa Claus of beer.

Medkeff’s research reveals that the first reference to Gambrinus may have come in the year 98 A.D., when the Roman historian Tacitus identified a German tribe called the “Gambrivii.” The beer king himself was likely an invention of later writers.

As the German people struggled with disunification, Gambrinus became a cultural touchstone for a shared heritage. The tradition was brought to America, and foundries actually advertised Gambrinus statues in beer trade journals. The statues tended to be made of zinc, a metal whose chief virtue was its low cost. Few of the figures remain; Medkeff knows of only four others that exist in North America today. The nearest statue is on display in Baltimore, while the others are in Breinigsville, Pa., Syracuse, N.Y., and Toluca, in central Mexico.

The beer kings who sprouted above breweries became symbols of German culture, but for modern audiences they have taken on new meanings. Delaware’s statue represents in part the social, cultural and industrial history of immigration in the late 19th century, says Scott W. Loehr, CEO of the Delaware Historical Society.

When Brewing Was Women’s Work

One modern Delaware brewer sees positive elements in that past, especially the connection between brewing and its local community.

Craig Wensell, founder of Wilmington-based Bellefonte Brewing Company, says restoring the statue is an important way to hold onto history. He sees something else in Gambrinus’ bushy beard: a re-branding of brewing as man’s work instead of a feminine job.

For the thousands of years before brewing became big business, it was typically the province of women, Wensell says. The industrialization of beer led men to claim it as their own, which required a rebranding campaign.

“The iconography of King Gambrinus really is an attempt by the masculine side of the culture to requisition brewing as something males did instead of females,” he says.

Wensell also says Gambrinus represented a connection to the community. When the statue was erected, he says, beer was a local product, made and consumed by local people. The advent of refrigeration and transportation changed this, and during Delaware’s four-decade brewery drought, that connection was severed.

Local craft brewers, Wensell says, are restoring that connection. They enjoy helping to lend an identity to the places where they operate, and their customers return that affection.

The statue’s own return trip was sparked by a pivotal encounter.

Picking up the Pieces

In 2014, Medkeff was researching his book on Delaware brewing history when he visited an estate sale for Robert Howard, a curator at the Hagley Museum and Library who owned the broken statue when he died.

At the sale, a lawyer approached Medkeff and asked if he knew anyone who might want the statue’s remains. And that’s how he ended up with the pieces, which may otherwise have been lost to a landfill.

The fundraising effort has only just begun with a few small events, and Medkeff says the nonprofit may expand to other parts of brewing history, perhaps with historic markers and memorials. The Friends group is planning a living history tour and Victorian picnic (with beer, of course) next spring to help raise money.

For now, though, they’re focused on raising the hundred grand —a rough target at this point—to weld the statue back together. Some pieces, however, are missing. To replace them, restorers will scan another of the statues cast from the same mold and fabricate the missing pieces.

Once finished, Wilmington’s Gambrinus will be painted to match its original colors and planted atop a base in the Market Street museum. Because it will be reinforced by an internal skeleton—the first version was largely hollow—it will be sturdier than before.

Of course, it would be much cheaper to simply cast an all-new statue, but ultimately less authentic and resonant, says Loehr. “It’s that connection to the real thing, to the stuff of history,” he says. “I think that’s what moves people.”

To learn about the statue, its history and the campaign to Restore the King, visit restoretheking.com.

Where to Watch the Game

This season brings college football and intriguing NFL action back to a bar near you. Because of the multitude of options—number of TVs, choice of beers on tap, best food—we’ve come up with this directory to guide you through the selection process.

8th & Union Kitchen

801 N. Union St., Wilmington; 654-9780
Number of TVs: 5
Beers on Tap: 16, Bottled Beers: 38
Crowd Favorites: half-price burgers, tacos, appetizers, and $1.25 oysters.

BBC Tavern & Grill

4019 Kennett Pike, Greenville; 655-3785
Number of TVs: 7
Beers on Tap: 15, Bottled Beers: 60-75
Crowd Favorites: Nachos, caprese salad, house-made meatloaf, and BBC Burger.

Big Fish Grill

720 Justison St., Wilmington; 652-3474
Number of TVs: 9
Beers on Tap: 7, Bottled Beers: 26
Crowd Favorites: Fresh, chef-inspired seafood dishes, large outdoor patio and lounge on the Riverfront.

Buffalo Wild Wings

Multiple locations: Bear, Dover, Limestone Rd.,
Middletown, Newark, Rehoboth
Number of TVs: 42
Beers on Tap: 24, Bottled Beers: 18
(Features sports lottery at Bear, Dover, Limestone Road and Middletown locations)
Crowd Favorites: Boneless or traditional wings in any of 16 signature seasonings or sauces.

Chelsea Tavern

821 N. Market St., Wilmington; 482-3333
Number of TVs: 4
Beers on Tap: 31, Bottled Beers: 214
Crowd Favorites: Wood burning oven pizza, Chelsea cheeseburger, and BBQ pork nachos.

Columbus Inn

2216 Pennsylvania Ave., Wilmington; 571-1492
Number of TVs: 5 (and a projector screen)
Beers on Tap: 8, Bottled Beers: 28
Crowd Favorites: Lobster fried rice, filet sandwich, and CI signature crab cakes.

Deer Park Tavern

108 W. Main St., Newark; 369-9414
Number of TVs: 21
Beers on Tap: 24, Bottled Beers: 31
Crowd Favorites: Wings, mix combo, and nachos.

Delaware Park

777 Delaware Park Blvd., Wilmington; 994-6700
Number of TVs: at least 37 at each location, including many 100-inch screens and one 150-incher
Beers on Tap: 5-6, Bottled Beers: 15
Three bars – Club 3, The Cove, and the Sports Bar – all featuring plenty of pro football action plus the sports lottery
Crowd Favorites: Flame-broiled cheeseburgers, dollar hot dogs, cheese pizzas from Picciottis, wing zings, jalapeno crab fritters, crab fries, crab cakes, and lobster.

Ernest & Scott Taproom

902 N. Market St., Wilmington; 384-8113
Number of TVs: 11
Beers on Tap: 29, Bottled Beers: 30
Crowd Favorites: Blackened mahi tacos, loaded fries, and burgers.

FireStone Roasting House

110 W. St., Wilmington; 658-6626
Number of TVs: 24
Beers on Tap: 8+, Bottled Beers: 30
Crowd Favorites: Firestone original pizza, spinach tomato ricotta pizza, and Firestone burger.

Gallucio’s

1709 Lovering Ave., Wilmington; 655-3689
Number of TVs: 8
Beers on Tap: 16, Bottled Beers: 15
Crowd Favorites: Pomodoro pizza, California turkey Ruben, sautéed seafood medley, stromboli, and homemade lasagna.

Grain Craft Bar + Kitchen

Newark, Bear and Kennett Square, Pa.
Number of TVs: 12
Beers on Tap: 24, Bottled Beers: 60
Crowd Favorites: Fried pickles, street tacos, and Cubano

The Greene Turtle

250 S. Main Street, Suite 101, Newark; 454-1592
Number of TVs: 48
Beers on Tap: 24, Bottled Beers: 30+
Crowd Favorites: Crab dip, Chesapeake burger, and hog hammers.

Grotto Pizza

16 locations in Delaware
Number of TVs: 15-25
Beers on Tap: 6-14, Bottled Beers: 16-22
Crowd Favorites: Boneless wings, appetizer combo, and broccoli bites.

Iron Hill Brewery & Restaurant

Wilmington and Newark
Number of TVs: 4
Beers on Tap: 12-20, Bottled Beers: 7-9
Crowd Favorites: Cheesesteak eggrolls, voodoo chicken pizza, crab cake sandwich, petite filet mignon, scallops, and house nachos.

Kelly’s Logan House

1701 Delaware Ave., Wilmington; 652-9493
Number of TVs: 18 TVs including a big screen
Beers on Tap: 22, Bottled Beers: 18
Crowd Favorites: Buffalo wings, chili nachos, and dirty bird grilled cheese. 

Kid Shelleen’s

14th & Scott, Wilmington; 658-4600
Number of TVs: 6
Beers on Tap: 13, Bottled Beers: 55-60
Crowd Favorites: Shelleen’s nachos, buffalo wings, and chicken quesadilla.

McGlynn’s Pub

Three locations: Polly Drummond, People’s Plaza, Dover
Number of TVs: 22 with NFL Package, all games all week
Beers on Tap: 32, Bottled Beers: 40+
Crowd Favorites: Wings, nachos, burgers, and prime rib.

Mexican Post

3100 Naaman’s Rd., Wilmington; 478-3939
Number of TVs: 5
Beers on Tap: 5, Bottled Beers: 24
Crowd Favorites: Fajitas, chimichangas, and nachos.

Pike Creek Pub

4809 Limestone Rd., Wilmington; 235-8368
Number of TVs: 12
Beers on Tap: 8, Bottled Beers: 18
Crowd Favorites: All draft beers $3, Bud Light, Miller Lite, and Coronas are $3.

Route 2 Tavern

4305 Kirkwood Hwy, Wilmington; 256-0803 
Number of TVs: 15
Beers on Tap: 12, Bottled Beers: 15
Crowd Favorites: All draft beers are $3, Bud Light, Miller Lite, and Coronas are $3.

Stanley’s Tavern

2038 Foulk Rd., Wilmington; 475-1887
Number of TVs: 40
Beers on Tap: 25, Bottled Beers: 66
Crowd Favorites: Award-winning baby back ribs, wings, and tavern nachos. (Also features sports lottery.)

Stone Balloon Ale House

115 E. Main St., Newark; 266-8111
Number of TVs: 4
Beers on Tap: 16, Bottled Beers: 50
Crowd Favorites: Beef & bacon lollipops, keg fries, and short rib pot roast.

Tonic Bar & Grille

111 W. 11th Street, Wilmington
777-2040
Number of TVs: 15
Beers on Tap: 16, Bottled Beers: 24
Crowd Favorites: Crab cakes, fried calamari, and lobster tail.

Trolley Square Oyster House

1707 Delaware Ave, Wilmington;
384-7310
Number of TVs: 6
Beers on Tap: 16, Bottled Beers: 30
Crowd Favorites: Live music, open until 1am daily, Best of Delaware winner for lobster roll, and large raw bar.

Two Stones Pub

Three locations: Newark (294-1890),
Wilmington; (439-3231)
& Kennett Square (610-444-3940),
Number of TVs: 6-10
Beers on Tap: 20-25, Bottled Beers: 40-90 at each location
Crowd Favorites: Fry piles, hog wings, and chicken wings.

Washington Street Ale House

1206 Washington St., Wilmington
658-2537
Number of TVs: 9
Beers on Tap: 24, Bottled Beers: 20
Crowd Favorites: Draft beer selection and Sunday brunch with a build-your-own bloody mary bar.

Calling All Film and Beer Buffs

Monthly Movies on Tap events offer brews and classic films. And best of all, 99 percent of ticket sales go to a nonprofit.

Like brewing beer, some ideas take time to come together.

Early last year Ryan Kennedy of Premier Wine & Spirits approached Penn Cinema and Out & About Magazine about partnering on a new concept. It was a special 21-and-older event series that soon became known as “Movies on Tap.”

Kennedy’s idea was to bring together a local brewery, brewers and moviegoers for a night of fundraising fun. Since then, each MOT brewery has been tasked with picking a cult or classic film, such as Ghostbusters, The Princess Bride and Pulp Fiction. Before the film starts, guests get to sample many of the featured brewery’s beers and chat with the makers of the beer. Movie costumes, props and movie trivia games are also part of the evening, and an unlimited supply of popcorn is always on hand.

More than one year later, the monthly event is still going strong. And the best part is, 99 percent of the evening’s ticket sales go to a charity or nonprofit of the brewery’s choosing.

As of last month, MOT had raised an impressive $28,270 for more than a dozen charities while attracting more than 1,700 paid attendees. Each event averages about 160. At its current rate, when the 2017 season ends, MOT will have raised a total of almost $50,000.

“When the series started, attendance was low, and we used one of our 100-seat theaters,” says Tom Potter, General Manager at Penn Cinema. “Now we use one of our larger 300-seat theaters. I think people really like the idea of bringing back classic films and drinking beer for a good cause. Ryan and his team really know how to put on an event.”

Fundraising events such as MOT play a crucial role in sustaining the life of nonprofit organizations. One of the organizations that has benefited most from MOT is the Food Bank of Delaware (FBD). So far, three Delaware-based Breweries (Mispillion River, Blue Earl and Dew Point) have chosen to donate ticket sales to the FBD. Together, they have raised more than $4,000.

Says Food Bank’s Larry Hass: “Nonprofits are always in search of creative fundraising events to engage their supporters and attract new friends while having a great time. Movies on Tap represents a partnership between multiple businesses to bring together a diverse group of people to the Riverfront in support of critical nonprofits.”

Ryan Kennedy of Premier Wine & Sprits (far left) and John Hoffman, owner of Dew Point Brewing Company (far right), award a check for $3150 to Mack Wathen and Larry Haas of the Food Bank of Delaware (both center). (Photo Ryan Kennedy, Premier Wine & Spirits)
Ryan Kennedy of Premier Wine & Sprits (far left) and John Hoffman, owner of Dew
Point Brewing Company (far right), award a check for $3150 to Mack Wathen and Larry Haas of the Food Bank of Delaware (both center). (Photo Ryan Kennedy, Premier Wine & Spirits)

Big name breweries like Dogfish Head and Iron Hill have stepped up to show their support. Dogfish Head closed out the 2016 season in December with a premier of National Lampoon’s Christmas Vacation. The evening raised $6,300 for the Nature Society of Delaware.

In April, Iron Hill Brewery used its film of choice as a way to get people to ditch work or class and catch an afternoon showing of Ferris Bueller’s Day Off. Coupled with an evening showing, the event raised slightly less than $2,000 for Pink Boots Society—an organization that aims to educate and advance the careers of women in the beer industry.

“The best part of the campaign is following up with the charity, meeting them, and doing the check presentation, then telling that story to our attendees on a monthly basis,” says Kennedy. “The money raised goes to everything from hunger programs, education programs for inner-city youth, counseling, cancer research and beyond. It’s amazing what $20 can do for your community if everyone chips in. We are all in this together, so why not support the community we all live, work and play in —while having a little bit of fun?”

This month, Victory Brewing Company, one of the largest and most popular craft breweries in the area, will host the event on Thursday, July 20, from 6:30 to 9 p.m. The featured film will be the ‘80s comedy Fast Times at Ridgemont High. Ninety-nine percent of the evening’s ticket sales will benefit the Ronald McDonald House Delaware.

So the next time you’re thinking about heading to the theater to watch the Incredible Hulk smash through a wall, or cry while Ryan Gosling confesses his undying love, why not check out what film is up next for MOT? It may be an old favorite and the charity of the evening may be one that does a lot more for your community than any super hero or heartthrob ever could.

Tickets are just $20 for a flight of beer, unlimited popcorn and, of course, the movie. For more information, check out the events page at facebook.com/PremierWineSpirits.

Food & Brew Hits 14

The annual Newark festival has become a celebration of community

The Newark Food and Brew Festival (F&B) returns for its 14th year on Saturday, July 22, from noon to 7 p.m. in downtown Newark.

F&B began in 2003 as an event aimed at showcasing the craft beer scene and the many restaurants of downtown Newark. But it quickly became more than a compilation of food and beer, evolving into a representation of the community. F&B gives the citizens of Newark a chance to enjoy their town, listen to live music, eat delicious meals, and indulge in a diverse selection of beers without the usual crowds. It also allows local businesses to connect with the full-time residents of Newark.

“So much of our business comes from not only the college students, but the support staff for the university—professors, staff, and their families,” says Sasha Aber, owner of Home Grown Café and a veteran of F&B. “During the summer, those patrons go their own way, and the locals begin to emerge in droves. It’s great to see people running into old friends and making new acquaintances in the heart of our town.”

F&B was one of the first craft beer events in Delaware. Fourteen years later, it has grown into one of Newark’s most anticipated summer festivals. “Food and Brew highlights the best of downtown Newark,” says Megan McNerney, Community Affairs officer for the city.

This year, 18 establishments along Main Street will participate. Each will be paired with featured beers from a selected brewery. Some of the breweries include Lagunitas, Brooklyn Brewing Co., Victory, Dogfish Head and more. To make the most of the $1-$2 beer samples, available at each establishment, the first 2,000 visitors to this year’s F&B will receive a commemorative five-ounce tasting mug.

Participating restaurants will serve tapas styled bites to go with the brews. “The restaurants are pairing specialty plates with beers to give customers a unique experience,” says McNerney.
Old Favorites, such as Catherine Rooney’s, Home Grown Café and The Deer Park Tavern, will also offer tasty plates. Some establishments, such as Café Gelato, have full entrée deals and larger beer samples for the attendees.

F&B is a pay-as-you-go festival. Attendees can stop at as many of the participating establishments as they wish and get their fill, while enjoying the town and a night out in their community. The pay-as-you-go aspect allows them to participate without breaking the bank—or expanding the waistline.
For more information and the full list of participating restaurants and featured breweries, visit newarkfoodandbrewfest.com.

Summer Suds Worth Sipping

A few brews we think you may enjoy

Magic Hat, Bob’s 1st Ale
For crisp, cool summer nights, fruity or wheat beers just don’t seem right. On the other hand, Bob’s 1st Ale presents an interesting alternative: smooth and light but complex, sweet and malty but with some citrusy undertones. As many older drinkers can remember, Magic Hat was one of the original craft breweries on the East Coast. This beer—the first one the brewery created—seems to signal a return to the inventiveness and overall quality of years past. Look for this brewer to revive other classics this year.
Jim Miller, Director of Publications

Epic Brewing, Brainless on Peaches
Over a recent weekend, I enjoyed a new selection from a brewer I had not tried previously: Brainless on Peaches. Epic Brewing Co. out of Salt Lake City produces a fine Belgian-style ale. This beer, a spinoff of one of the company’s decorated recipes, brings a fruitier and wine-like taste to its Belgian staple. I found my bottle at State Line Liquors in Elkton, Md.
— Ryan Alexander, Contributing Designer

Two Roads, Two Juicy New England-style Double IPA
Doesn’t finish as clean as Vermont’s famed Heady Topper, but this New England-style double IPA is a must-try. Great citrus aroma with hints of grapefruit and tangerine. Its 8.2 ABV gets your attention quickly, but that’s standard for this craft category. So mow the grass before—not after—you have one.
— Jerry duPhily, Publisher

New Belgium, Citradelic Tangerine IPA
Citradelic starts out sweet, but mellows out into a well-balanced, medium body IPA. The clean, crisp taste from the citrus and tropical fruit (pineapple) marries perfectly with the outrageous blend of 10 different hops. Available in bottles and cans for easy portability, Citradelic is also available in Exotic Lime, featuring Persian limes, coriander and black pepper.
— Leeann Wallett, Contributing Writer

Dogfish Head, SeaQuench Ale
I discovered SeaQuench style of beer at Dogfish’s Analog-A-Go-Go Music Fest last year. Low ABV, strong flavor and a good, cool face-pucker give this sour gose high marks as a summer refresher. Happy it’s not so hard to find these days.
Joe del Tufo, Contributing Photographer

Mispillion River, Reach Around IPA
This American IPA is available all year, but I like it best during the summer months. Mild for an IPA, this light-flavored, dry, hoppy brew is perfect for day-sipping under the sun.
Matt Loeb, Creative Director

Austin Eastciders, Pineapple Cider
Since beer doesn’t exactly sit with my system so well, I’m going to suggest Austin Eastciders Pineapple Cider, which has slowly started making its way onto the cider scene across the country. I first fell for the Pineapple, but really like the Texas Honey too. Definitely worth trying if you’re into ciders.
— Jim Coarse, Contributing Photographer

Founders, All-Day IPA
It’s summer. It’s hot. But you still want all the hop flavor and aroma you’ve come to enjoy from an IPA, without all that alcohol content that makes you dizzy in the heat. My choice is Founder’s All-Day IPA. You’ll get great floral and citrus hop flavor, but in a session format, so you can go the distance at just 4.7 percent ABV per can. If you’re looking for a full-flavored but low-booze IPA, you just “found” one.
— Rob Kalesse, Contributing Writer

Twin Lakes, Caesar Rodney Golden Ale
I had the opportunity to try this beer at Old New Castle’s Separation Day kick-off party, and I was so impressed that I drank it all night. A nice malty backbone, nice citrusy hop character, and a light color and texture kept me going back for more. Hopefully, this ends up in cans so we can take them to the beach.
— Tyler Mitchell, Graphic Designer

Iron Hill, Gozer
Iron Hill is our go-to spot when the kiddoes are in tow. I was glad to see that they added a gose to the menu this summer. Gozer (named after the local band) is light-bodied and slightly sour with a bit of salt and coriander on the finish. At 4.2 percent ABV, it’s a great beer for a hot summer day.
— Marie Graham, Director of Digital Media

Victory, Prima Pils
This Victory Brewing Company German pilsner, at 5.3 percent ABV, is a summer quencher full of herbal bite and hoppy delight. Balanced nicely between sweet and bitter, it’s refreshing and light. Pair it with fun foods like pizza or barbeque fare and you’re good to go.
— Krista Connor, Associate Editor

Miller Lite with a half-teaspoon of Country Time Lemonade Mix
As we inexorably march toward the heat death of the universe, summers become increasingly unforgiving. A watery, low-gravity beer like Miller Lite is perfect for making sure one doesn’t pass out in the harsh sun and wake up, hungover, in the burn ward. But how does one make it easy on the palate? Country Time Lemonade Mix. For fans of Leinenkugel Summer Shandy, or a “Rattail” (from the German radler).
— David Hazardous, Special Projects

On a Lighter Note

A tilt toward lower ABV sessions leads craft beer trends in 2017

If you’re a craft beer drinker, you know the struggle.

You relish the slow-drinking delights of a hoppy India pale ale with a hearty meal or a few drinks with friends, then call it a night, relatively unfazed by the 6 percent (or higher) ABV.

Then comes the barbecue. Or the day at the beach. You’re in for the long haul, and an afternoon of those IPAs you normally savor is going to hit just a little too hard for you to head home under your own power. It’s one of those moments as a craft beer fan when you think to yourself, “It sure would be nice to have a crisp, refreshing pilsner that went down easy like the ones dad used to drink, but still had some craft beer personality.”

The good news is that craft brewers, who helped launch the IPA craze, feel the same way, says Mike Piorunsky, brewer for Evolution Craft Brewing Co. The Salisbury, Md., brewhouse has introduced Delmarva Pure Pils to its lineup to entice the more session-minded consumer looking for clean refreshment with the quality of a good craft brew.

“You definitely are looking for that drinkability factor,” says Piorunsky. “And with this beer, the intent was to make something that would have a lot of the traditional characteristics of the pilsner style.” While not as heavily hopped as many of the craft beers people are most familiar with, there’s still that touch—mostly aromatic—that says this was a purposefully crafted brew.

But it’s not just the drinker preferences that brewers are aiming to satisfy, says John Leyh, craft and specialty brand manager for NKS Distributors in Wilmington. It’s also about the bottom line.
“More people are drinking craft beer every day, but not as fast as there are new beers available to them,” he says. “These brewers have kind of gotten into a place where they’ll make a really good IPA, but [thanks to traditionally higher alcohol content] people can’t drink a lot of it.”

Those brewers are also looking at beer sales figures showing that nearly 80 percent of the beer sold in the United States still falls under the heading of German-style pilsners—the Budweisers and Michelobs that combine smooth drinking with a lower alcohol by volume. Not wanting to give up their growing market share to the big brewers of the world, craft brewers are getting the message and ramping up production of their own pilsners, blonde ales and golden lagers, Leyh says.

“It’s effectively the same style of beer as Budweiser, it just might have a little more of a hop character,” he says. “The brewers are offering what the consumer wants and hoping they’ll pay for something that’s a better beer. They like making really good beer, but they also like selling a lot of it.”

Selling more also means finding a niche that isn’t being filled by other brewers, Leyh says. Those pitching a new IPA to a bar that already has several on tap in that category won’t get a positive response, but offering something different like a flavorful golden ale or pilsner gives a brewer a better chance of getting that foot in the door. Often, the hope is that a good experience with a beer that has broad appeal might lead to a tavern owner trying another beer from that brewer.

“This is kind of a course correction because it allows the craft brewing community to service more customers,” says Leyh.

Evolution’s Piorunsky concurs.

“When we put this beer together, we did it with the thought that it’s going to be approachable to everyday beer drinkers in the market and flavorful enough to capture the palate of someone who would normally buy an IPA,” he says.

Golden Delicious

Here are a few of the latest crop of golden brews sure to make your summer sipping more refreshing:

Fordham Gypsy Lager – Particularly here in the Northeast, saying “lager” denotes a specific brand that often is not up to snuff for many craft beer drinkers. What Fordham has done is take the traditional Munich-style Helles lager, with its distinctive Munich and Vienna malts, and created a honey-tinged sweetness that contrasts the hoppy bitterness. Clean and crisp, this brew checks in with a 5 percent ABV that won’t overwhelm your afternoon by the pool.

Firestone Walker Pivo Pilsner – As with any good pilsner, Pivo starts with the classic styles of Europe – in this case the Czech Republic, Italy and Germany. But the folks at Firestone have put a decidedly American spin on the Old-World flavors by adding hops at the end of the brewing process, thus delivering the aromatic floral notes of the hops without the bitterness.

Kona Big Wave Golden Ale – Hawaii wouldn’t seem to be a hotbed of heavy IPA brews, but the folks at Kona do offer their own spin on the venerable ale. This golden ale pairs a light body with floral hoppiness for easy-drinking refreshment that complements seafood, pasta dishes and poultry.
Goose Island Four Star Pils – Another take on the traditional pilsner, this one emerged, according to Goose Island lore, from its employees’ interest in brewing a beer “they could enjoy at the end of their shift.” Brewed with a blend of American and German hops and with an easy-drinking 5.1 percent ABV, this is a flavorful pick for your enjoyment after work and over the weekend.

A pair of 'juicy" IPAs.
A pair of ‘juicy” IPAs.

Give It Some Juice

Not all refreshment this summer will be had at the hands of a pilsner or golden ale, however. The venerable IPA has gotten a boost of summertime sparkle from the increasingly popular addition of fruitier hops varieties, resulting in a flavor that’s come to be described as “juicy.”

While not involving actual juices, these (often double) IPAs possess a flavor and aroma that departs from the usual piney overtones of traditional hops and comes off as more fruity or citrusy. Think pineapple or passionfruit rather than the floral notes that often accompany a traditional IPA.

But even though these newer arrivals might make it seem like juice is the hot new thing, using actual juices and fruit sodas in beers has been around for a while. Shandies—essentially a lager spiked with lemon soda—have been slow to catch on with the craft beer crowd because they go against much of what they strive for in the way of complex flavors and high alcohol content. But as warm weather is upon us and every bit of refreshment is appreciated, it’s worth noting that summer brings more of these juice-infused delights than any other time of year, and that some craft brewers are warming up to the idea of cooling off with some juicy creations of their own.

The Crowler

One of the pervasive challenges of loving your local brewpub has been enjoying their beers at home. Not long ago, the only option a devoted fan had was to purchase a “growler”—essentially a jug—from said brewpub and pay to have it filled. But as handy as growlers are for beer you plan to drink quickly, they’re not great at keeping beer fresh for longer than a few days.

And those craft brewers that focus more on bottled beers than on-site brewpub consumption have their own portability problems. What to do if you’re inclined to carry your favorite craft brew to an event that limits or prohibits glass containers?

The solution: The “crowler,” essentially a canned, sealed version of the growler that saves brewpub proprietors the hassle of dealing with customers who return unwashed growlers and likewise sparing customers the aggravation of beer that skunks after a few days in the fridge.

Still more convenient: Regular old cans that you can grab at your favorite retailer. Downingtown, Pa.’s Victory Brewing is offering a limited edition seasonal 12-can variety pack through August that includes four summer seasonals: Summer Love, Vital IPA, Hop Devil IPA and Prima Pils. Meanwhile, local brewpub chain Iron Hill has begun offering canned versions of its most popular brews, including Vienna Red Lager; Mahalo, Apollo!, and Rising Sun IPA.