Bison, Boraxo and biodegradable coasters: Are green restaurants the wave of the future? Some local eateries are giving it a try.
On a blustery fall morning, members of the New Castle County Chamber of Commerce gathered at Ted’s Montana Grill in the Christiana Fashion Center for the restaurant’s grand opening ceremonies. It was only 10 a.m., but that didn’t stop servers from passing copper mugs filled with “Hendrick’s Mules” and diminutive burgers speared with tiny American flags. The crowd gathered to watch Ted’s CEO, George McKerrow Jr., and chamber President Mark Kleinschmidt cut into a steak so large that it easily dwarfed a cheesecake.
Just another restaurant opening near the mall? Not quite. The ceremonial steak and sliders are bison, which is the star attraction at Ted’s Montana Grill. Sodas, which come with wax-coated paper straws, are placed on 100-percent biodegradable coasters. Want yours to go? Takeout cups are made with cornstarch. In the bathroom, soap dispensers contain biodegradable Boraxo.
McKerrow and his partner, the media mogul Ted Turner, are dedicated to sustainability in the restaurant industry. “We started the conversation,” says McKerrow. In 2008, they spearheaded “The Green Restaurant Revolution” tour.
But they’re not the only ones making an effort. Several Delaware-based establishments are also stepping up to the plate. It’s not easy. Most restaurants lack the resources of Ted’s Montana Grill, which is fueled by Turner’s convictions, McKerrow’s 40-plus years of industry experience—he also founded LongHorn Steakhouse—and some serious buying power; Ted’s is now in 16 states.
But even Ted’s bows to some consumer preferences, practical considerations, and an industry that has yet to catch up.
Blackened blue catfish from NorthEast Seafood Kitchen in Ocean View, one of nine restaurants owned by Rehoboth Beach-based SoDel Concepts. All nine feature the fish, which is threatening the ecosystem in the Chesapeake Bay. Photo Pam George
On the Plate
Turner—who is an avid outdoorsman—and McKerrow decided to feature bison to help increase the threatened animal’s herds. The population, which numbered up to 30 million at one time, dwindled due to habitat loss and overhunting in the 19th century.
As more consumers become aware of the health benefits of bison (it’s higher in nutrients and lower in calories than most meat), they will increase the demand—or so the theory goes. Ranchers, as a result, will grow their herds, which can be good for the environment. Able to withstand harsh weather conditions, bison are natural foragers that thrive on grass outdoors; there’s no need for feed and artificial shelter. They calve without human interference, and their natural heartiness requires fewer vet visits than cattle.
Their grass diet results in meat that is slightly sweeter than regular beef and much leaner. The taste and the health benefits have whetted the public’s appetite, which is evident by the number of bison burgers in many local restaurants, including Buckley’s Tavern in Centreville. Of course, both Buckley’s and Ted’s also offer standard beef burgers and steaks.
Supporting the growth of an endangered species is one way that restaurants can be sustainable. Another is to create dishes with creatures that are causing an imbalance. Take, for instance, the wild blue catfish, which was introduced into the Chesapeake Bay and its tributaries in the 1970s for anglers. The fish, however, has few predators other than man, and it exhibited a voracious appetite for just about anything on the bay’s bottom.
“It’s a pesky fish, but it is delicious,” says William Hoffman, who with his wife, Merry Catanuto, owns The House of William & Merry in Hockessin. “We try to serve it as much as we can to try and help balance the ecosystem in the bay.”
Farm-raised fish have been getting a bad rap for the fish’s unhealthy habitat. Disease not only can affect the farm-raised fish but it can also drift into the wild fish population.
But not all aquaculture practices are detrimental to the ocean. Brian Ashby, the owner of 8th & Union Kitchen in Wilmington’s Little Italy, features Verlasso salmon, which is raised on Patagonian farms that follow sustainability standards established by the World Wildlife Fund. He also sells specials with cobia that’s raised in open-water farms.
These new methods encourage containment in the deep ocean, where the currents can flush the pens. The containment mimics a natural habitat as much as possible, right down to including species such as mussels, which consume waste.
Hoffman offers alternatives to overfished species like swordfish, tuna and salmon. “There are so many species out there that aren’t overfished, but that people don’t know about,” Hoffman says.
In the House of William & Merry, diners expect to find new ingredients prepared in innovative ways.
Buckley’s Tavern, known for its comfort food, recently offered parrotfish, which are threatening coral reefs. But at the Big Fish Grill restaurants, customers stick to the familiar, says Eric Sugrue, the managing partner. “It’s challenging because obviously, we want to do the right thing, but we also want to put items on the menu that people like and can afford to eat,” he says.
The price point is also a factor for the restaurant’s cost, Sugrue adds. Joe Van Horn, owner of Chelsea Tavern, might agree. “We use reputable vendors, and purchase the most sustainable [ingredients that] we can, while continuing to offer the price point that we do,” he says.
What’s more, many restaurants won’t take a risk on an item not selling because diners refuse to try it. Sugrue says there’s been no noticeable uptick in customer concern for sustainable fish or new species, even in the market adjacent to the original Big Fish location in Rehoboth Beach.
Recycle & Reuse
Sourcing sustainable food is not the only way that restaurants can benefit the environment. The reclaimed wood that makes 8th & Union Kitchen’s décor so distinctive likely came from a tobacco factory, says Ashby, who noticed the aroma when the workers were cutting the wood.
Van Horn says that his restaurants recycle paper, cardboard, plastic. glass, metal and fryer grease.
(Using services that manage and recycle kitchen oil has become a common practice.)
Along with reclaimed wood for the dining rooms, using services that manage and recycle kitchen oil has become a common practice.
Brian Ashby, owner of 8th & Union Kitchen, says the restaurant’s reclaimed wood decor likely came from a tobacco factory. (Photo by David Norbut)
Reducing food waste is also a practical priority. Home Grown Café in Newark orders small quantities to make sure that everything is used, says owner Sasha Aber, who also buys as much of her seasonal food as possible from local vendors.
Restaurants like Home Grown and 8th & Union Kitchen that make items from scratch can be resourceful. “There is very little that goes to waste in this kitchen,” Ashby says. “Nearly every vegetable scrap is used in our mushroom pho. Meat scraps are almost always incorporated into other dishes. There is always a veg scrap bin in the walk-in.”
Some Delaware restaurants once participated in a composting program with the Wilmington Organic Recycling Center. But that business was ordered to cease operations in 2014 due to neighbors’ complaints about the smell.
At Harry’s Savoy Grill, the leftover prime rib is donated to Emmanuel Dining Room and other charities. Oyster shells are sprinkled in garden beds. From plastic to glass bottles, everything that can be recycled is recycled at The House of William & Merry.
Ted’s Montana Grill at the Christiana Fashion Center. (Photo by Joe del Tufo)
Materials Matter
With their plastic straws, coffee stirrers and takeout containers, restaurants can generate a lot of waste that collects in landfills—and stays there. When McKerrow and Turner decided to open Ted’s Montana Gill, they wanted to do something about that problem. In 2001, McKerrow researched paper straws online and found a company in New Jersey that invented the product in 1833. He called and talked to the third-generation owner.
“He said: ‘George, we haven’t made a paper straw since 1970,’” McKerrow recalls. It was possible, however, that the machine was still around. The owner called back to say the engineers had indeed found the machine and could make it work. With packaging in hand, the straws arrived at the first Ted’s in Columbus, Ohio, in trash bags. Unfortunately, they quickly turned to limp noodles in the soda.
The motivated company found a biodegradable polymer to make the straw and stirrer last an hour.
Today, the company also sells the products to cruise lines under the name Aardvark Straws. Being responsible does not come cheap. Regular straws cost less than a penny when purchased in bulk. A package of 24 paper straws is $4.99 online.
Ted’s originally used all biodegradable takeout containers. Without clear plastic lids, though, servers mixed up the orders. Plus, some foods quickly soak through cardboard. The restaurant conceded that aluminum with a clear lid was better for some items.
As for building materials, low-flow toilets, no-water urinals, and high-pressure/low-volume water sprayers deliver a return on investment and help promote sustainability. These are additions that customers, who can press restaurants to do more, cannot see. But for those committed to sustainability, there is too much that they do notice.
Yasmine Bowman, for one, is watching. The realtor and Wilmington resident says she is dedicated to being a responsible consumer. On her Facebook page, she writes, “‘Sustainability’ will be my personal word and cause for 2017.”
“I tend to stay away from restaurants that do not recycle. I prefer to frequent establishments that are in line with my value systems. I also do not go to fast food restaurants that put hot food in plastic containers. The health dangers of BPA leaching into the food are a huge health threat. I would also like to see more restaurants offer organic, cruelty-free and gluten-free options. This is the future. Those who find a way to accommodate this sooner will thrive; those who don’t will slowly fail.”
Two new establishments are bringing an Old World beverage—mead—to today’s market
“I rose up in the morning and I felt a dire need
To dream away the dreary day
And drink a cup of mead.
Ignoring the sting of honey bees
I drank and drank some more.
Awoke the very next day and
My [expletive] head was sore.”
— 12th century English drinking song
Yes, they used expletives in the 12th century, and probably a lot of them after a long night drinking mead, the exquisite and potent honey wine that is making a comeback in the 21st century.
Throughout history, people have found a way to turn just about anything into a cocktail, including grain, grape, potato, rice and even something sweet like molasses or honey. And mead, made from honey, is one of the oldest recorded alcoholic beverages, dating back to 7000 BC in Northern China and 2000 BC in Europe.
To most people, the word “mead” conjures images of fur-clad Vikings sitting around a fire while they throw down the sweet drink from cups made of ox horn, or England in the Middle Ages, with bawdy inns and Robin Hood and his merry men draining pewter mugs of the stuff as they sing “I rose up in the morning…” and plotting against the Sheriff of Nottingham.
Like most great discoveries, mead probably was created by accident; some fermenting agent got into some honey, time passed and—voila!—it was cocktail hour. But because honey was hard to acquire (those darn bees), the drink, although still made and enjoyed, was soon passed in popularity by beverages that were made from fruits and grains and other non-stinging sources.
But now, two establishments in Delaware are trying to bring the ancient concoction to modern drinkers.
“It’s one of the oldest and most popular alcoholic beverages on earth, but not many people have ever tried it and a lot of people have never even heard of it. We hope to change that,” says Terri Sorantino, who, along with partner Dr. Jeffrey Cheskin, has opened Liquid Alchemy Beverages on Brookside Avenue in Elsmere.
Sorantino and Cheskin discovered mead by accident. Four years ago, the couple was on vacation in Maine and stopped at a café that served mead, which neither had ever tasted. Intrigued, they sampled some and immediately fell in love with it. And on the long drive back to their home in Old New Castle, they decided to bring mead to Delaware, and maybe make a little money, too. Even though they both have thriving careers—Cheskin is a chiropractor and Sorantino is a nutrition counselor—they wanted to invest in a food or beverage business where they could be creative and be their own bosses, but they knew the craft beer market was flooded. So, their trip to Maine proved to be serendipitous.
Dr. Jeffrey Cheskin and Terri Sorantino of Liquid Alchemy Beverages fell in love with mead the first time they tasted it. (Photo by Jim Coarse)
Growing Up with Mead
“You’re always looking for something new and different, something that sets you apart from everybody else,” says Sorantino. “As soon as we tried mead, we knew that we had found what we were looking for.”
Whereas Sorantino and Cheskin were amateurs who stumbled onto mead and its possibilities, Jon Talkington is a brewing professional who grew up with it—even as a kid he used to home-distill mead in his kitchen, as well as beer and wine.
“I’ve been making mead for over 20 years,” Talkington says. “Both of my grandfathers made different kinds of stuff over the years and I just picked up on it. They both lived on farms and made apple jack and cider and brewing has just been a part of my life ever since I can remember.”
That early exposure to the benefits of fermentation led Talkington, a native of Ohio, to become a brewer at Dogfish Head Brewery in Milton, the undefeated and undisputed king of local craft breweries.
Talkington has worked at Dogfish Head for the last 12 years and he’s also a professional wine maker, so it was a relatively easy and natural move for him to make mead. And, like Sorantino and Cheskin, he saw that there was a market niche he could fill with the ancient drink.
Talkington has teamed with business partner Robert Walker Jr., who has worked at Dogfish Head for the last six years and currently has the title of Inventory Fulfillment Specialist. In the next month or two they will open Brimming Horn Meadery in Milton, with Talkington as the beverage specialist and Walker as the business specialist.
As the name indicates, they will emphasize mead’s Viking tradition in their marketing and décor at Brimming Horn. That’s why their meads are called things like Freya’s Kiss, Bjornbar and Viking Berry, as well as one with the gotta-try-it name of Goat’s Blood (made from grapes and cherries).
“I first learned about mead like a lot of other people did, from reading history books and mythology,” Talkington says. “Mead is mentioned in Beowulf, so you know it’s been popular for a long time when it becomes part of a mythology like that. And that mythology is a big part of mead’s appeal today. At the same time, we’re not just marketing this as some kind of trip back through history. It’s also like a sweet wine, and there are enough different kinds to appeal to all kinds of tastes.”
Kitchen-Inspired
Sorantino-Cheskin and Talkington-Walker have something in common when it comes to making different kinds of mead —both teams get most of their inspiration not from the brewery, but the kitchen.
“I love to cook and Jeff loves to experiment and that combination is a key,” Sorantino says. “We also get a lot of our inspiration from cooking shows on The Food Network. We’ll see somebody do something with a recipe, with different fruits and spices and flavors—like when we saw someone making a popsicle out of blackberries and lime—and then we’re like, ‘Hmmm…I wonder if that would work with mead.’ And then we’ll experiment and make a small batch. Sometimes it just doesn’t work, but some of our best meads have come from that approach.”
Says Talkington: “I’ve always cooked and I’ve always enjoyed trying different recipes and making my own recipes, and that’s a big part of my approach to making mead—don’t be afraid to experiment. That’s one of the real pleasures of doing this, when you can come up with a recipe of your own that really works. It’s a very creative process that just also happens to taste great.”
Variety is a key to making not only good mead, but also marketable mead. Basic mead is made from just fermented honey, but despite what one might think, it’s not thick and syrupy. Regular mead—at Liquid Alchemy Beverages it’s called “Sweet-Nothing” —definitely has sweetness about it, but there’s no mistaking the alcoholic bite. And that’s just one of many varieties available, and most batches of mead are some combination of fruits and spices and grains and, of course, honey.
“It’s like wine,” Cheskin said. “Some people like red and some like white. Some like a dry wine and some like a fruity wine and some like a spicy wine. It’s the same thing with mead. The key is to find out what works and what doesn’t and that’s all part of the process and part of the fun of doing this. It’s a great feeling when you have an idea and it ends up tasting delicious.”
Both Liquid Alchemy and Brimming Horn use local fruits as much as possible, but they also go exotic at times, which is why one of Liquid Alchemy’s meads will contain cinnamon from Sri Lanka and blackberries from Hockessin.
“You want the best of both worlds, so to speak,” Talkington says. “You want the freshness of local produce and you want to support local businesses. That’s very important because we want to be part of the community. But we also want to bring other worlds to Delaware. If you do it right, it makes for a great combination.”
Getting the Word Out
For Sorantino and Cheskin, one of their biggest challenges is to get people to sample their wares at their renovated warehouse. Their meadery is in the middle of a street lined with industrial garages and warehouses, and even though they completely redid their place and it has a warm, cozy feel to it, the location isn’t ideal for starting a new business. To compensate, they’ve gotten involved with local food fairs and festivals and other events where they’ve been able to introduce mead to a different and mostly younger crowd.
“That’s the most important thing of all—getting the word out,” Sorantino says. “Every time we go to some festival or event we get more and more fans of mead. People are intrigued by the idea and they love the taste and they love the idea that it’s different. And then they want to know where they can get it.”
“There’s a reason this drink has been around for centuries,” she adds. “And that, of course, is part of the allure of mead—its history and place in literature, that feeling of connecting with the Old World. What we’ve tried to do is bring the past into the present, and we’re having a lot of fun while doing it.”
Welcome to our seventh annual Worth Trying Issue. Though we feature Worth Trying suggestions monthly, each January we devote much of the magazine to personal recommendations from staff, contributors and friends of Out & About. These suggestions on where and what to eat, drink, see and do are scattered throughout these pages, interspersed with our usual assortment of feature stories, news items and other fun stuff.
Enjoy, and have a very happy New Year!
MISCELLANEOUS PICKS
Annual Book Sale
Fellow bibliophiles, rejoice. Each year, the dead-of-winter dullness—at least for my admittedly-nerdy self—is brightened in anticipation of this event. Friends of the Hockessin Library hosts a sale at Hockessin Memorial Fire Hall, from which funds go to the upkeep of the Hockessin Public Library. Heaps of books of all genres fill a massive room outlined in rows on tables, in piles stacked on the floor—everywhere, books! Here’s the rule: you purchase a large paper bag (or two, or three) for $7 or $8 and fill it to the brim. Veterans know to bring a sturdier burlap satchel for added support, of course, and a few hours later, you exit with ample texts to last through the coming year. This year’s sale is Jan. 26-29.
— Krista Connor, Associate Editor
Delivering Meals and More
Studies have shown that people who volunteer their time live longer. So live a longer, richer life: volunteer to be a Meals on Wheels driver. These hot, nutritious noontime meals are much more than sustenance. Often, the volunteer driver is the only person the shut-in senior will interact with during the entire day. This nonprofit is in desperate need of drivers. It takes only about two hours of your time, and you can volunteer for as few as two deliveries a month. Call the Meals on Wheels center nearest you: City Fare/St. Anthony Center, Wilmington, 421-3731, or Newark Senior Center, 737-2336.
— Bob Yearick, Contributing Editor
Penn Cinema
For years, many pleaded for a Wilmington movie complex – former Mayor James Baker being one of the most vociferous. Today we have a state-of-the-art one on the Riverfront and though it’s been around since 2012, there are still plenty who haven’t paid a visit. You owe it to yourself. Penn Cinema has 14 screens plus IMAX, comfortable leather seats, ample leg room and now serves beer and wine. And it’s within walking distance of a half-dozen restaurants for a meal before or after the show.
— Jerry duPhily, Publisher
“Reply All”
I subscribe to a couple of dozen podcasts, but there’s only one I follow with a first-season-of-“Serial” intensity, and that’s “Reply All.” Every weekish, hosts PJ Vogt and Alex Goldman unearth stories that could only exist in our digital age, stories that are at turns riveting (I swear you will care about the story of Wayne, the guy in the episode “Boy in Photo”), heartbreaking (a game designer works through his son’s struggle with cancer in “The Cathedral”), and mind bending (I truly believe it’s at least plausible that Pizza Rat is part of an armada of highly-trained rats unleashed on New York City to create viral content and modern myths, as investigated in “Zardulu”). Technology changes how we relate to one another in the world. “Reply All” gets right to the heart of it.
— Matt Sullivan, Contributing Writer
Be a Good Human
I know. Who am I to tell you what to do? Consider this just a gentle nudge…a friendly reminder to do something small today to support the notion that there are still good humans living among us. Hold a door. High-five a stranger. Pick up litter and toss it in a trashcan. Say hello to your neighbors. Easy things to overlook, but even easier to accomplish.
— Matt Loeb, Creative Director & Production Manager
The Vinyl District Record Store Locator App
So, let’s pretend you’ve been plopped down in Poughkeepsie and you’re wondering if there’s a record shop where you can buy Herbie Mann’s “Push Push” on vinyl. Never fear, that is if you have The Vinyl District Record Store Locator App on your phone. It’s absolutely free for iPhone and Android users, and lists some 3,200 independent record stores in 40 countries, some of them imaginary! If there’s an independent record store in Pyongyang, North Korea, the app’s GPS-based locator will tell you exactly where it is. And the app also displays a vast list of record fairs around the globe by date and location. Finally, it includes a TVD Record Store Club feature that will tip you off to new releases, as well as a host of giveaways, contests, and more. Go to thevinyldistrict.com and download the app today!
— Mike Little, Contributing Writer
Westworld on HBO
Two decades before Michael Crichton’s Jurassic Park ran wild on the silver screen, he wrote and directed Westworld, a 1973 sci-fi film about another kind of over-the-top tourist attraction going off the rails. Instead of genetically resurrected dinosaurs running amok, Crichton first imagined malfunctioning androids gunning down thrill-seekers in a Wild West-themed vacation spot. Same game, different park. While the DNA (or binary code) of Crichton’s original Westworld repeats itself in the overall structure of this recently adapted HBO series, the show-runners have cleverly tinkered with the original formula. In this iteration, the robots are drawn as the more sympathetic characters while humans are cold and heartless. The show trudges somewhat aimlessly through its middle episodes, but the finale delivers plenty of twists and tense action. That said, Westworld ultimately is compelling because of the questions it asks along the way about identity, memory and what exactly constitutes consciousness.
— Jim Miller, Director of Publications
A Book about a Show About Nothing
If you’re in the search of some “serenity now,” get your “man hands” on Seinfeldia, a compendium of stories about how one of the greatest sitcoms became a cultural phenomenon. There’s plenty of “yada, yada, yada” about the cast, characters and storylines that produced one of the most influential television shows of all-time.
— Rob Kalesse, Contributing Writer
Train Your Brain
Forget all those invites you keep receiving to play mindless smartphone games like “Farmville” and “Candy Crush,” and instead download “Peak.” This mental gymnastics app will keep your brain jumping through all sorts of hoops, helping you focus and sharpen your memory. In no time, your mind will be as sharp as a tack, and you’ll forget about all those other mindless games.
— Rob Kalesse, Contributing Writer
Chef Lhulier Dinner Party
This year, my wife and I hosted two dinner parties at the home of Chef Robert Lhulier. We invited three other couples, carefully selecting a motley crew who didn’t know each other well but would enjoy each other’s company. Chef Robert prepared four courses of food (for $60 a head) and everyone BYO’d the wine and bubbles and brandy. The results: Fantastic, relaxed, delicious evenings filled with great tunes, loud conversation that probably would have gotten us kicked out of most restaurants, and personalized attention from one of the best chefs in Delaware. Chef Lhulier will come to your house too – but he sets a fine table (that you don’t have to clean) at his, while you Uber home. Check out how it works at lhulier.com.
— Matt Sullivan, Contributing Writer
Mozart in the Jungle
If you think a TV show about a symphony is stuffy, then think again. Amazon Prime’s original series Mozart in the Jungle, whose third season debuted in December, is devastatingly clever. The witty script boasts such well-drawn characters as the eccentric Maestro Rodrigo, played by Emmy winner Gael Garcia Bernal. Bernadette Peters and Malcolm McDowell are also at their hilarious best. The appearance of real life classical heavyweights, including Yo-Yo Ma, add fun and flair. Catch up on Prime.
— Pam George, Contributing Writer
Bringing Nature Home
I bought a new (old) home this past spring, and although the lot isn’t very large, it was very overgrown. We ripped everything out and planned to start fresh. While researching ideas, I came across Bringing Nature Home, by University of Delaware professor Douglas W. Tallamy. He makes the case for biodiversity in city and suburban home gardens. He explains how over-development has threatened our ecosystem, why alien plants are problematic (bugs and animals can’t eat them), and provides practical suggestions for how home gardeners can use native plants to make a serious impact. The book made me reconsider my whole landscaping plan, and has me really looking forward to spring.
— Marie Graham, Director of Digital Media & Distribution
LaFate Gallery
Jamaican-born self-taught artist Eugene LaFate has a cozy, colorful gallery that houses her vibrant work in the LOMA district of downtown Wilmington. With a personality as warm and charming as her artwork, LaFate has established herself as one of Wilmington’s artist advocates. The gallery sells her originals, prints and postcards; she also offers a variety of workshops and classes. At 227 N. Market St. lafategallery.com. 656-6786.
— Mark Fields, Film Reviewer
REI (Recreational Equipment Inc.)
During an REI kayak-camping trip I took this summer in Wyoming’s Teton National Park, I got a firsthand look at how this company operates in a friendly, fun and professional manner. The co-op offers discounts and annual rebates to its members. In addition, it treats employees with tremendous respect: all REI locations are closed for Black Friday, a traditionally huge shopping day during which staffers are encouraged to get out of the store and enjoy outdoor time with their family and friends instead.
— Jim Miller, Director of Publications
Lewinsky’s on Clinton
The name of this Delaware City pub has created quick a few chuckles, but this cozy tavern is a great destination for a beer and a sandwich—perhaps after a stroll along the Castle Trail or a visit to Fort Delaware. The food is tasty, the craft beer selection is solid, and the joint is jumping on weekends with performances by local bands and acoustic acts.
— Jerry duPhily, Publisher
Stuff You Should Know Podcast
How does a fireplace work? What’s the chemical make-up of Play-Doh? Stuff You Should Know is a podcast that answers these random questions, plus so much more. Pop it on while you’re working or doing chores around the house. Knowledge is power!
— Matt Loeb, Creative Director & Production Manager
PACE Network
Have you ever thought about getting involved in the betterment of Wilmington’s public education system? The PACE (Parent Advocacy Council for Education) Network, an initiative of Christina Cultural Arts Center, allows parents and community members to do just that; it joins adults, youth, and educators to imagine, create, and advocate for equity, access and more effective learning in schools and community places. To learn more or get involved, email ccac.pace@gmail.com.
— Sarah Green, Special Projects
Dirk Gently’s Holistic Detective Agency – BBC America (On Demand)
Years after the death of author Douglas Adams, his character Dirk Gently—who solves crimes by surfing along with the interconnectedness of all things—finally made it to TV this fall. The result is a great short-run series that combines the sci-fi, comedy and over-the-top weirdness Adams fans came to love in his Dirk Gently novels—with excellent modern updates. Now that the entire series is available On Demand, let the binge watching commence!
— Scott Pruden, Contributing Writer
Avoiding the Kiosk
There is a Panera next to my daughter’s preschool, and we find ourselves there more than I care to admit. They have “Fast Lane” kiosks there—touchscreen computers that allow customers to order for themselves. We walked in the other day and there was no line, but there were three people using the kiosks. My son asked if we could use one too and I said no. Why? Because if everyone uses the kiosks, jobs currently reserved for humans will be replaced by computers. Same goes for the grocery store self-checkout. If the place is packed, I get it. But otherwise, why not contribute to keeping someone employed?
— Marie Graham, Director of Digital Media & Distribution
PICKS OF THE FOOD VARIETY
Trader Joe’s “This Cranberry Walks Into a Bar…” Cereal Bars
I’ve gotten so many “winning” grocery items from TJ’s, it’s hard to pick a favorite. But this seasonal-only (they usually disappear after January) oat & fruit cereal bar is one of my go-tos—tart, chewy, the perfect-sized mid-day bite. I persistently badger the staff to carry them all year long…so far, no luck.
— Michelle Kramer-Fitzgerald, Contributing Writer
Tbaar Inc.
Whether you’re looking for a delicious bubble tea, a healthy wheatgrass smoothie, or a sweet or savory crepe, Tbaar at 108 East Main St. in Newark is the place to go. Tbaar may be a chain, but you wouldn’t know it by the scrumptious handmade crepes. I’m the savory type, and I always order the “Yo! Check It Out,” a Chinese style crepe that comes with ham and tofu plus several pungent sauces that make each bite a glorious adventure for your taste buds. And it’s spicy! Order it with the Honey Jasmine Tea, or the Bubble Milk Black Tea, and I guarantee you an experience equal to anything Anthony Bourdain may be eating this week. And you don’t have to go to China to find your bliss.
— Mike Little, Contributing Writer
Grub Burger Bar – Concord Mall
I didn’t want to like Grub. I don’t like chains, don’t go to malls and thought it was a terrible name for somewhere you plan to eat. There are enough places to get a decent burger, but Grub has become my go-to spot. Turns out it’s a very small (under 20 locations) chain, its burgers are creative and delicious, and though I still don’t like the name I do like the logo. It also turns out I really like milkshakes with alcohol; a bourbon & caramel milkshake takes the edge off being at the mall. And the Scorpion burger with Trinidad Moruga scorpion sauce is intense. Decent food, great concept and surprisingly fast service is a welcome change.
— Joe del Tufo, Contributing Photographer
Cooking with Anchovy Paste
It’s a secret ingredient that will have your tongue saying, “Ooh mommy, umami!” Just don’t tell your uncle about it. He hates trying new things.
— David Hallberg, Special Projects
Thug Kitchen: The Official Cookbook
This vegan cookbook was probably the best thing my wife and I bought as newlyweds. As we approach our 30s, we realized that we often made the same meals, week after week, since both of us are not very advanced in the kitchen. We’re not vegans but we were looking for a way to expand our culinary horizon, as well as trying to eat a bit healthier and eat less meat. I came across the blog for this book, and was impressed by how easy it was to follow recipes. It explained a few uncommon ingredients and cooking techniques in a straightforward way. I should also mention that the tagline for the cookbook is “Eat Like You Give A F**k” and it uses lots of expletives, so I would not recommend it for children. But for us, it always makes us laugh when we’re reading a recipe out loud, and it made cooking a much more enjoyable activity.
— Tyler Mitchell, Graphic Designer
Market Street Bread and Bagel
This small tidy shop has endured some start-up issues in its first year (It opened January, 2016), but it has settled into a welcome addition to Market Street. I won’t evaluate the coffee since I don’t drink the stuff, but I can heartily attest to the quality of the breakfast and lunch offerings. I especially like the sticky buns with their nice blend of stickiness and flakiness. For lunch, I always struggle to choose between the curried chicken salad and ham and brie, all offered on bread baked on the premises. The menu is compact, but what’s there is dee-lish. At 832 N. Market St. 482-2553.
— Mark Fields, Film Reviewer
J’s Café
Located inside Janssen’s Market in Greenville, this cafe was always a great place for breakfast or lunch, but now you can indulge in a mimosa with your breakfast or a beer with your sandwich, and, of course, pick up a few grocery items before you leave. J’s specializes in wood-fired pizza and a wide range of sandwiches and entrees. My favorite is the Janssen’s turkey, arugula, havarti cheese & sun-dried tomatoes panini paired with an interesting craft beer.
— Julie Miro Wenger, Event Allies
Angelo’s Luncheonette
It’s small (five tables, 12 counter stools) and the food isn’t fancy, but this old-time diner (1722 N. Scott St.) has been feeding happy Forty Acres people for almost 50 years. It’s only open for breakfast and lunch and the menu is pretty standard, but the quality of the food, the reasonable prices and the friendly staff make this place special. Try one of the house specialties, a Provoroni Dog—a hot dog with pepperoni and melted provolone cheese.
— Kevin Noonan, Contributing Writer
Ghirardelli Double Chocolate Hot Cocoa
Looking through the aisles at the grocery store, it can seem impossible to find something chocolate that doesn’t contain dairy. After reading the ingredients on almost every brand of hot chocolate, I finally found Ghiradelli Double Chocolate, which had the lone ingredient list that did not include milk. So, for any lactose intolerant friends or vegans, this is for you.
— Deanna Daly, Local Artist & Educator
La Madera Bistro
This cozy, rustic BYOB eatery in historic Kennett Square, Pa., offers an eclectic mix of entrees, gleaning inspiration from Mediterranean and Latin American styles, to name a couple. Most sandwiches are served with some variation of fresh, roasted vegetables, and the very-necessary side of roasted potatoes are sublimely balanced between crisp and smooth.
— Krista Connor, Associate Editor
Fried Pickles
These deep-fried delights offer a delicious detour from standard appetizer fare like wings, nachos and hummus. Equal parts salty and bitter, they also offer a satisfying crunch and are clean and easy to eat, unlike many other starters. Chelsea Tavern in Wilmington was one of the first in the area to feature fried pickles on its menu. More recently, Newark’s Grain Craft Bar + Kitchen brought its version to the table, which comes with a zesty cilantro-lime dipping sauce.
— Jim Miller, Director of Publications
PICKS OF THE DRINK VARIETY
Paradocx Vineyard
Visiting the Landenberg, Pa., winery and vineyard each autumn and winter has become a non-official tradition for me and some friends. The family-run estate features a handful of wines grown on the surrounding 100 acres of land. Guests are welcome at the informal tasting room to sample full glasses or flights and to hang out indefinitely in the warmth, taking in the bucolic winter landscape outside.
— Krista Connor, Associate Editor
The Delaware Growler
If you’re a craft beer fan in the area and haven’t checked this place out, I suggest you go, now! Located right across from Dunkin’ Donuts on Main Street in Newark, it has roughly 50 beers on tap at any given time for growler fills, plus much more in bottles and cans. I have found myself checking the website weekly to see what’s on the tap list because there’s usually a beer I’ve been trying to find. Bring your own growler or choose one of theirs, which come in a variety of sizes.
— Tyler Mitchell, Graphic Designer
Cascade Brewing
The resident beer expert at Trolley Tap House, Greg Safian, recently introduced my husband and me to Cascade Brewing. Cascade is a Portland, Ore., based brewery that focuses on fruit-forward, barrel-aged sour beers, and they just recently arrived in Delaware. I’ve tried the Kriek and the Apricot Ale—an American Wild Ale—and really enjoyed both. If you like sours, keep Cascade on your radar.
— Marie Graham Poot, Director of Digital Media & Distribution
Liquid Alchemy Beverages
I recommend that you get your mead from this new spot in South Wilmington. Yes, you read that correctly, and no, we have not gone back in time. This cozy little tasting room off Maryland Avenue holds regular weekend hours and special events. The most recent limited release, Black-302, became available on Jan. 1.
— Ryan Alexander, Contributing Designer
1984 and Oddity Bar
If ever two Wilmington bars were destined to be neighbors, it was these two. As with many memorable duos—Simon & Garfunkel, Starsky & Hutch, R2-D2 & C-3P0—the two bars build upon their similarities and complement each other’s strengths and weaknesses. With the variety of bands they book, both venues attract similar crowds: people looking for something other than Top 40 cover bands. While both offer the finest craft beers in the area, Oddity also pours cleverly concocted mixed drinks while 1984 offers an assortment of vintage video games and other arcade favorites. But most important, inside each bar you feel like you are very much in a unique place. Which, in another way, makes them quite the pair.
— Jim Miller, Director of Publications
PICKS OF THE MUSIC VARIETY
The Nomad Bar
I love The Nomad Bar. For anyone who, like me, works late or goes to evening meetings more often than I get out to the many, many shows and performances I wish I had time to see, The Nomad is a perfect go-to spot when you finally find yourself free. It’s a ready-made scene and completely welcoming place to enjoy local artists playing live jazz and other genres that get your blood pumping (and skilled bartenders help that along). I always run into great people there—coworkers, neighbors, community leaders—and you don’t need to worry about who’s playing. Just show up, it will be great music and a great vibe. I’m not a regular at The Nomad, but whenever I’m there, I feel like one. 905 N. Orange St., Wilmington.
— Elizabeth Lockman, Director of the Parent Advocacy Council for Education (PACE) at the Christina Cultural Arts Center
Kate Bush’s Before The Dawn
In 22 nights at Hammersmith, London, in late summer 2014, 75,000 lucky people saw the first live headline concerts by Kate Bush in more than 36 years. In those years, she went from cult heroine to self-produced radio smash to seemingly retired earth mother in the British countryside—until her latest concept LPs. Before The Dawn, an extravagant Broadway-caliber stage production, was assembled over 18 months before this mixture of live concert and dramatic rock theater had its one-month run. We now have a complete live recording on three CDs or four LPs or by download. Experiencing “The Ninth Wave” side 2 of Hounds of Love (1985), performed by Kate, actors and dancers and her live band remains one of my most emotional concert experiences. Experience it!
— Ron Ozer, Producer at Arden Concert Gild
Eyebawl
My current favorite local music project is Erin Silva’s (of Tracy Chapstick) solo project “Eyebawl.” Her quiet-rocking confessionals will hit you right in the feels. Catch her at a local venue or hit up her Bandcamp page.
— Miranda Brewer, Owner of Rainbow Records
The Local Music Scene
I can understand if folks feel this is a cop-out. It’s like saying oxygen is worth trying. But hear me out… I’ve been at Out & About for more than two decades. In that time, I have played in bands, booked clubs, managed bands, promoted shows, and helped produce local concerts. And as you can imagine, I’ve also heard and seen a lot of bands play live. A lot. But never have I been more hopeful for the local music scene than I am right now. More clubs are booking live music than they have in years, and thankfully there are a variety of interesting acts to fill them. It feels like an awakening, and whether you are a musician, club owner, or avid fan, I encourage you to take part in it. It’s an exciting time for local music.
— Jim Miller, Director of Publications
Rusty Blue
If you miss ‘90s rock, check out Rusty Blue. I saw them during Musikarmageddon this past summer, and couldn’t believe that sound was coming from teenagers!
— Sana Bell, Community Events Manager at The Grand
PICKS OF THE PLAY VARIETY
Russell Peterson Urban Wildlife Refuge
Did you know that Wilmington has a 212-acre wildlife refuge right in our backyard? Located at the end of the beautiful Christina Riverwalk, this urban oasis is a great destination for a peaceful walk, a glimpse of a bald eagle, or a drop-in program for kids to see what critters they can find in the pond. Whether you’re just interested in strolling through the marsh on the boardwalk loop or coming out for one of Delaware Nature Society’s many programs, this spot is well worth a visit any time of the year.
— Sarah Green, Special Projects
The Woodlands at Phillips
Looking for a way to boost your immune system? Then head to this delightful little mushroom museum and retail store in Kennett Square, Pa. (1020 Kaolin Rd.), and pick up some Maitake mushroom. This edible mushroom, known as the “hen of the woods,” is great on the grill or in stir-fry and has anti-cancer, anti-viral and immunity-enhancing properties. It also may help reduce blood pressure and blood sugar. The Woodlands is the retail store of Phillips Mushroom Farms.
— Julie Miro Wenger, Event Allies
Northern Delaware Greenway Trail
This 7.2-mile trail provides a unique and spectacular view of some of New Castle County’s recreational treasures, including Alapocas Run State Park, Bellevue State Park, Rockwood Park and Bringhurst Woods Park. Walk, run or ride it.
— Jerry duPhily, Publisher
Oddball Art Hall
Have you ever found yourself at a craft fair or arts festival and thought the selection was tacky or basic? If yes, check out Oddity Bar’s Oddball Art Hall. This local artist collective is held on the third Friday of every month, the next date being Jan. 20. Support some great local artists, including Dea Daly, Kristen Margiotta and Cori Anne.
— Ryan Alexander, Contributing Designer
South Chesapeake City
Come visit a quaint little historical town separated by the C & D canal. It’s a charming town with lots of interesting shops and some good food with local lodging available. Take a walking tour and see the restoration of lovely homes and gardens. Less than an hour’s drive from Wilmington, it will transport you back in time. Visit the website: chesapeakecity.com.
— John Murray, Proprietor, State Line Liquors & Contributing Writer
Embrace the Season
Winter can be an easy time to stay inside and hibernate, but I say try to do something outside to embrace the season. Why not lace up your skates and enjoy the Riverfront Rink on the Wilmington Riverfront? The kids love it and it feels great to get outside and do something festive around the holidays. riverfrontrink.com.
— Matt Loeb, Creative Director & Production Manager
Look no farther than The First State for your holiday shopping
Art
Delaware By Hand
406 Federal St., Dover Biggsmuseum.org
674-2111
Pieces are created by the artist and artisan members of the Biggs Museum. The retail store is located at the Biggs in Dover.
Terrance Vann terranceism.bigcartel.com
The Wilmington-based artist is working with the Wilmington Renaissance Corporation on the 7th Street Arts Bridge.
Christmas Decorations
Marcia Poling Bird Ornaments
Wild Birds Unlimited
7411 Lancaster Pike, Hockessin hockessin.wbu.com
These bird-themed Christmas tree ornaments are hand-painted in lovely detail by Dover artist and naturalist Marcia Poling. Each ornament offers a unique design, perfect for the bird lover on your list.
Dea Daly deannadaly.com
From Newark, Dea Daly offers one-of-a-kind ornaments this holiday season. She also sells incense burners and charms made from polymer clay. Orders and custom pieces can also be placed on Facebook or Instagram.
Drink
Brandywine Coffee Roasters
1400 N. Dupont St., Wilmington brandywinecoffeeroasters.com
731-0427
Price: $10 & up
A great option for the local coffee-lover, Brandywine Coffee Roasters offers delicious, hand-roasted blends, sourced from the world’s best coffee. Sample some at the closest Brew HaHa!, or learn more at brandywinecoffeeroasters.com. The products feature very cool artwork as well.
Highland Orchards
1431 Foulk Rd., Wilmington highlandorchardsfarmmarket.com
478-4042
Stop by this family-run fruit and vegetable farm for some delicious, seasonal apple cider, made fresh from the farm’s harvest.
Food
Fierro Cheese
1025 N Union St., Wilmington fierrocheese.com
656-8955
Price: $10 & up
This family-owned and operated maker of quality Italian dairy products, including ricotta, ricotta impastata, mozzarella, curd and queso fresco, is located in the heart of Little Italy.
Maiale Deli & Salumeria
3301 Lancaster Pike, Wilmington
maialecuredmeats.com
691-5269
Price: $49 & up (platters)
More than 30 varieties of sausage and 10 types of salami are available here. All sausages and dried salami are handcrafted in house and made fresh daily.
Walker’s Apiary Honey
351 Wedgewood Rd., Newark
731-0427
Price: $10 & up
Located near White Clay Creek Preserve, this apiary also produces honey—along with wax and ointment.
Entertainment
Local Musicat Rainbow Records
54 E. Main St., Newark rainbowrecordsde.com
368-7738
Price: $10 & up
The entire store is a music and book haven, and we particularly recommend perusing the section showcasing area artists. It features an impressive assortment of records, CDs and tapes by local favorites.
The War on Words Book amazon.com
654-6483
Price: $9.95
Local wordsmith and O&A editor Bob Yearick has compiled a collection of his columns into a book. Each page is a spot-on, somewhat snarky attempt to eliminate the grammatical gaffes that plague our everyday communications.
Home Goods/Furnishings
Etcetera & Stitches
Newark etsy.com/shop/etceteraandstitches
Price: $3-$30
This online shop by local artist Kristen Vaughn features her individually-designed cross-stitch patterns, hand-crafted kits and finished pieces. Versatile with nerdy and pop culture references, along with modern embroidery hoop art, these pieces are a perfect stocking stuffer for anyone.
JKB Design
1004 Wawaset St., Wilmington jbuckley.net
559-3547
From custom cabinets to natural-looking wood tables and desks, Jim Buckley creates carefully crafted furniture to suit your unique specifications and reflect your personality.
Kitchen Accessories at Creations Gallery
443 Hockessin Corner, Hockessin creationsgallery.com
235-2310
Among the varied home items offered at Creations you’ll find the kitchen accessories that Middletown native Michael O’Grady creates from olive wood imported from sustainable sources in Bethlehem, Israel. The growth habit of the olive trees results in spectacular swirly figures—and, hence, unique conversation pieces for your home.
Michael Quattrociocchi quattrociocchiwoodwork.com
A member of the Delaware State of the Arts Council, Quattrociocchi focuses “on the true beauty of natural wood while providing an object with functional use.”
Well Born Clay
619 Harrington St., Wilmington wellbornclay.com
443-621-4036
Price: $15-$65
Specializing in functional wares for people who like to cook and eat naturally.
Jewelry/Accessories
Homespun for Everyone homespunforeveryone.com
Custom made hats, scarves and more for children and adults. Also offering lessons in knitting and crochet for adults and children. No experience necessary!
Lolah Soul Jewelry lolahSoul.com
888-771-7087
She creates “wearable art,” including rings, bracelets, necklaces and earrings.
Monserrat Elements facebook.com/monserratelements
540-5846
Sara Monserrat Teixido has been making one-of-a-kind, hand-crafted jewelry creations and amulets for more than 22 years.
Olga Ganoudis Designs
1313 Scott St., Wilmington etsy.com/shopOlgaGanoudis
421-9820
Olga Ganoudis’ hand-made jewelry includes some pieces with Game of Thrones themes.
Midwinter Co.
midwinter.co
Vintage and minimal classics in modern form, featuring natural gems and unique diamonds. This husband and wife team run a socially responsible business from their home studio in Wilmington, and 10% or more of their profits go to local charities.
Kids
Getting Sew Crafty gettingsewcrafty.com
Price: $5-$30
A Newark-based business, Getting Sew Crafty provides stylish and functional teething and nursing jewelry and accessories for mom and tot.
Outdoors
Alley-Oop
904 Coastal Hwy., Dewey Beach alley-oop.myshopify.com
227-7087
Price: Wearables & Accessories $21-$50
Created in 2000 by skimboarding aficionado Corey Mahoney, this Dewey Beach-based company produces its own line of skimboarding gear and skateboard decks. It also runs nationally-acclaimed skim-boarding camps at the Delaware beaches—one of the top skimboarding destinations in the world.
O’Neill’s Fly Fishing
Dedicated to all aspects of fly fishing culture, including seminars, lessons, instruction and custom fly tying. Flies range from $3.95 to more than $10, depending on the pattern. Tim O’Neill operates the business out of his home in Hockessin. Contact him at tim@oneillsflyfishing.com.
Out of the Ordinary
Sore Thumb Designs sorethumbdesignsllc.com
New Castle-based pop artist Lawrence Moore re-utilizes pages from comic book classics to create custom-designed storage trunks, which add fun and a dramatic splash of color to any playroom, studio or even an office. If you’re set on storage, Moore takes the same “pulp fiction” approach to the leather tote bags that are also for sale on his site.
Zexcoil Guitar Pickups
Lawing Musical Products, LLC lawingmusicalproducts.com
533-7548
For the musician on your list, these locally-made guitar pickups boast great tone without the nagging hum that comes from most conventional pickups. The unique design is the product of Delaware local Dr. Scott Lawing, an engineer with a PhD from MIT who also happens to be a veteran guitarist with the band In The Light.
The unincorporated community near the Pennsylvania border thrives through a sense of harmony, maintaining an ‘old town feel’
OUR TOWN SERIES: This is the third in a series of profiles about communities throughout Delaware
Joe Lake has a pretty good memory, which is what you’d expect for the president of the Hockessin Historical Society, but he can’t remember which national magazine, way back in the 1960s, labeled Hockessin as one of the “10 best places to live” in the nation.
Chances are that a good number of the community’s 13,000-plus residents would accord Hockessin that same honor today.
Hockessin, if it were incorporated, would be the fifth most populous city or town in Delaware—ahead of Smyrna and behind Middletown, Newark, Dover and Wilmington.
It would be ranked number one in terms of affluence. According to figures posted on City-Data.com, Hockessin’s median income is more than double the state’s median, and median home value is 79 percent above the state median. And, save for the ubiquitous Walgreen’s and Wawa logos, it can boast a business community that is almost entirely locally owned and operated.
“It’s close to Wilmington. It’s close to Kirkwood Highway. But it’s not Kirkwood Highway. It’s very suburban without being far away from the city,” says Kenny Wynn, who has lived in Hockessin for 48 of his 54 years and has spent a good part of the last 25 years organizing the community’s signature event, the Fourth of July parade, fireworks and community relay races.
“It’s great to see everyone come together. Sometimes I think you see 16,000 people,” says Wynn. Overcast skies and the threat of thunderstorms kept the crowd down this year, but the parade attracted at least one resident of nearby Greenville, Vice President Joe Biden.
Seventh-generation farmer Jim Mitchell, with Woodside Creamery’s Jersey cows. (Photo by Tim Hawk)
Agriculture – and Aromas
Longtime residents like Lake and Wynn remember a different Hockessin, an agricultural community occasionally susceptible to the overpowering aroma emanating from the mushroom farms along Valley Road and north to the Pennsylvania line.
“In the summer, a lot of high school kids got jobs on the farms, baling hay and picking corn,” Lake recalls. “We’d work all day in the fields, then after dinner go for a nice cool swim” at the pool the NVF Co. built at its plant in nearby Yorklyn. The pool’s operations were underwritten by NVF and the Hockessin-Yorklyn Lions Club—and a pass good for the entire summer cost only a dollar, he remembers.
Plans to develop the area’s last remaining mushroom farm—a 20-acre property on the north side of Valley Road—were filed with New Castle County last month, says Fran Swift, president of the Greater Hockessin Area Development Association (GHADA), an umbrella group that comprises representatives from 40 or so civic associations in the area, many of them constructed since 1967, when Swift’s father, Francis, became GHADA’s first president.
The development boom in the last quarter of the 20th century filled in most of the prime acreage in Hockessin – bordered roughly by Barley Mill Road on the east, Limestone Road on the west, the Pennsylvania border to the north and plenty of zigs and zags on the south.
For much of that time, GHADA was a reactive organization—one that battled developers as they sought to put more homes and shops in the area, says Ken Murphy, the group’s president from 1998 to 2006.
But, as development subsided, civic leaders adjusted their focus and helped create an informal governance system that well serves an unincorporated community that has no elected officials of its own.
Murphy is the head of the Hockessin Planning Partnership, whose members include Swift, representing GHADA; Lake, as head of the historical society; and Peg Castorani, president of the Hockessin Business Association, a hyperlocal version of a chamber of commerce. They meet periodically to discuss community needs, and to keep each other up to date on their activities.
John Sherman, owner of Creations Gallery, sits on a hammock chair outside his shop. (Photo courtesy of Creations Gallery)
“Strength in Individual Units”
The Partnership itself tends to keep a low profile. “If we do anything, the mother hen cannot take the credit,” Murphy says. “It’s better to do things through the member organizations. Our strength lies in the strength of those individual units.”
In addition, Murphy, Swift and Lake serve on the Hockessin Design Review Advisory Committee, an arm of the New Castle County government responsible for reviewing land development applications to make sure they comply with Hockessin’s master plan.
This collaborative approach has helped Hockessin develop two thriving business districts—the old village core along Old Lancaster Pike and the Lantana Square Shopping Center, a mile to the west at the intersection of Limestone and Valley roads.
“The population is very conducive to the business we have,” says Brody Glenn, manager of the Harvest Market, a natural foods retailer that opened on Lancaster Pike in 1995.
“We tend to have people who care about their health, and Hockessin and Greenville are among the wealthier parts of Delaware,” he says. On top of that, “the Hockessin Athletic Club is down the street, the Kennett YMCA isn’t far, and we catch a lot of traffic from commuters between Pennsylvania and Wilmington.”
One of Hockessin’s biggest business boosters is John Sherman, owner of Creations Gallery in Hockessin Corner, a rustic shopping area off Old Lancaster Pike. He has come and gone twice—and regrets both departures. In 1992, he opened his shop, which features American-made handcrafted gifts, furnishings and accessories in wood, metal, glass and ceramics, in the old Garrett Snuff Mill in Yorklyn. After three years, he moved to Powder Mill Square in Greenville, staying there until 1999, when he left after a dispute with his landlord. Dan Lickle, owner of both the Snuff Mill and Hockessin Corner, convinced Sherman to relocate to Hockessin. After 10 successful years, he says, “I had a brain fart” and decided to move to the Shoppes at Louviers in Newark. “It turned out to be a disastrous decision.”
The Hockessin-Newark “Wall”
It didn’t take him long to discover that “there might as well be a concrete wall between Hockessin and Newark.” Hockessin residents seldom go to Newark to shop, and Newark residents seldom shop in Hockessin. Sherman estimates that the move cost him 80 percent of his customers.
“Dan [Lickle] made me a great offer to come back” three years ago, and Sherman didn’t hesitate. “I love Hockessin. It’s a great community. It’s definitely my customer base,” he says.
However, he admits, somewhat sheepishly, that while the Newark-Hockessin route may not work for shoppers, he makes that jaunt every day between home and work.
Rebecca Dowling, owner of the Hockessin Book Shelf, also on Lancaster Pike, finds the area’s demographic ideal for her shop, and she broadens her reach by hosting reading groups and partnering with other businesses.
Dowling, one of the first employees when Paul and Maureen Piper opened the shop in 2001, bought the business when the Pipers retired to Hawaii in 2008. “We have spectacular readership,” she says, citing two major demographics: the abundance of families who buy board books for toddlers and summer reading assignments for teenagers and the senior citizens living comfortably in the area’s retirement communities.
She organizes book groups for fans of mysteries, romance novels and contemporary fiction, and regularly hosts book signings for local and nationally published authors.
Through the Hockessin Business Association, she partners with other retailers and nonprofits, often by featuring books tied to the interests of whomever she is partnering with. One of her most popular activities is a summer story hour for children at the Woodside Farm Creamery. “We’ve been doing that for five years,” she says. One session in early July drew more than 100 people.
William Hoffman, head chef of the House of William & Merry.
Fun for the Kids
While some of the business association’s greatest contributions to the community have come through its collaboration with other groups and participation with the New Castle County government and the state Department of Transportation in planning safety and beautification projects along Lancaster Pike and Old Lancaster Pike, Castorani happily talks about activities that put smiles on the faces of local residents, especially the children.
Before Halloween, the association sponsors a three-day weekend of activities. Then, in December, at the Hockessin Library, they present an interactive version of How the Grinch Stole Christmas. With the animated film playing on a large screen, business owners take on some of the roles themselves, and they invite the audience to join in.
“It’s ‘the Grinch meets the Rocky Horror Picture Show,’”says Greg Vogeley, owner of the Drip Café, a breakfast and lunch destination in Lantana Square that has grown so popular in three years that he is now doubling his seating space.
He made the decision to expand because his family-dominated Saturday and Sunday morning breakfast crowd kept coming in earlier and earlier “to beat the rush” and it has gotten to the point that the waits have become too long for parents with fidgety kids.
“We’re confident in our growth,” says Vogeley, even though he faces competition from nearby Starbucks and Brew HaHa! coffee shops and two eateries somewhat similar to his, the Perfect Cup and Quinn’s Cafe.
“We want to make this the best it can be. That’s the most important thing right now,” he says. “We don’t want to get ahead of ourselves.”
While Drip Café has become one of Hockessin’s popular destinations for those who eat out early in the day, the community has plenty of options for fine dining in the evening.
The Back Burner has long been a popular destination, and newer additions include the Redfire Grill, Six Paupers and Two Stones Pub. Down Lancaster Pike to the south is Capers and Lemons.
After three years of looking for a building where they could live and operate a restaurant, William Hoffman and Merry Catanuto homed in on an old farmhouse on Old Lancaster Pike that had most recently been used as a hair salon and rental property.
It was just what they wanted—an upscale community ideal for raising a family with a location that could attract local residents but also diners from Greenville, Centreville, Wilmington and Kennett Square. So, in 2011, they opened the House of William and Merry.
Bridget Sullivan with Vice President Joe Biden at the 2016 Hockessin Fourth of July parade. (Photo by Ryan Alexander)
Carving Their Own Niche
“Every year we’re growing more and more,” says Catanuto, who runs the front of the house while her husband is in charge of the kitchen. Her only lament is that the community isn’t busy enough in the middle of the day to generate thriving lunch traffic.
Offering seasonal new American cuisine prepared by French-trained chefs—“fine dining but not in a pretentious way”—Catanuto says “we’ve carved out our own niche” in a competitive dining environment.
And she relishes the competition. “It’s good for everybody’s game,” she says, “and it brings more people to the area.”
In addition to diversity in retail and dining, some of Hockessin’s appeal comes from its recreational options—notably its library, the county-owned Swift Park, the Hockessin Athletic Club, the PAL Center and a series of bicycling and walking trails developed in the past 10 years.
The community’s significant contributions to Delaware and national history also cannot be overlooked.
For history buffs, Lake says, “this town is a pot of gold, with so many nuggets in it that it’s unbelievable.”
In September 1775, British troops marched up what is now Limestone Road from Cooch’s Bridge south of Newark to Chadds Ford for the Battle of the Brandywine. British officers commandeered the use of the David Brown farmhouse just over the state line for use as a temporary headquarters.
Fifteen years later, priests from Maryland established the Coffee Run Mission, later known as St. Mary’s Church, the first Catholic church in the state, on Lancaster Pike. The old church was gutted by arson in 2010, but Trinity Church, an independent Christian denomination, hopes to preserve the structure as it builds on the site.
Tweed’s Tavern, an 18th-century inn where George Washington once dined, was threatened with demolition in the 1990s by a state plan to widen the intersection of Limestone and Valley roads. Hearings before New Castle County’s Historic Review Board slowed the demolition process. Eventually, the tavern was moved twice, and it now sits in a park on Valley Road, a short distance east of Limestone Road. The Hockessin Historical Society owns the building and broke ground last winter on a meeting and exhibit center next door.
Hockessin also played a significant role in the historic Brown vs. Board of Education decision in 1954 that found racial segregation in public schools unconstitutional.
Not far from the original Tweeds Tavern site once stood the home of Shirley Bulah, an African-American child who had to travel past white schools in order to reach Hockessin School 107C, on Millcreek Road, the site of a state historic marker. Shirley Bulah was identified as the lead plaintiff in a lawsuit that started in Delaware’s Court of Chancery and eventually became part of the Brown decision.
More recently, Lake notes, two of the first subdivisions in suburban New Castle County, North Star and Horseshoe Hills, were built in the early 1950s near Hockessin to meet the demand for convenient housing for DuPont Co. engineers working at the Louviers facility in Newark.
Hockessin may have many more residents than it did a generation ago, Castorani says, “when you could literally pull out of Sanford School onto Lancaster Pike without looking left or right.”
But, through all its changes, its essence hasn’t changed. As Catanuto puts it, “it still has the old town feel.”
Delivering Meals and More
Penn Cinema
“Reply All”
The Vinyl District Record Store Locator App
Westworld on HBO
A Book about a Show About Nothing
Chef Lhulier Dinner Party
Mozart in the Jungle
Bringing Nature Home
LaFate Gallery
REI (Recreational Equipment Inc.)
Stuff You Should Know Podcast
Dirk Gently’s Holistic Detective Agency – BBC America (On Demand)
Avoiding the Kiosk
Trader Joe’s “This Cranberry Walks Into a Bar…” Cereal Bars
Tbaar Inc.
Grub Burger Bar – Concord Mall
Thug Kitchen: The Official Cookbook
Market Street Bread and Bagel
Angelo’s Luncheonette
Ghirardelli Double Chocolate Hot Cocoa
La Madera Bistro
Paradocx Vineyard
The Delaware Growler
Cascade Brewing
